For All The Face Frame Users

[atgcpaul]

I'm going to build a craft center for my wife tomorrow (taking the day off work
and I can't wait!!!). It's going to use melamine and go frameless. My first one.

I'm much more accustomed to FF cabinets especially the hinges which IMO are
pretty easy to install on a FF. I'm still thinking about how I'm going to line up
the hinges for the frameless cabinet.

With frameless I still need to iron on the edging. This got me thinking. If I
was using solid wood, I'd cut all my pieces to final size and start assembling.
Everything would end up flush. With frameless, should I iron on in place after
the piece is assembled. If I do that, piece thats started out flush will be
offest from each other.

If I iron on before assembly, then I need to take in account the thickness of
the edging when I rip/crosscut my pieces. Some pieces will be edged on 2 sides
whereas others will be edged on just one. That's a lot of math.



These 2 base units will be topped off by a nice 3'x'6' worksurface. There will be a 3" subbase under both units.

[cabinetman]

I'm much more accustomed to FF cabinets especially the hinges which IMO are
pretty easy to install on a FF. I'm still thinking about how I'm going to line up
the hinges for the frameless cabinet.

There's not much of a difference in placing hinges on FF'md or frameless. Frameless is easier. You could take the brand you're using and mount a plate on a hinge, and close the hinge as it would be if the door was closed. Then just measure back from the back of the metal boss (that goes into the bore hole) to the mounting screws on the plate. That measure would be the setback for the screw holes of the plate if you were to mount the plates first.

Or, on some hinges, mount the hinge in the door with the plate mounted, and open the hinge. Set the back edge on the front edge of the cabinet with two popsicle sticks (as spacers), move the door to its placement on the cabinet, and just screw the plate to the side of the cabinet. This works great with many full overlay hinges. Now, you can usually get by with hinge/plate selection by just using a full overlay hinge, and just buying the thickness of the plate for inset, partial or full overlay conditions. Full inset conditions will require measuring for the plate placement.

With frameless I still need to iron on the edging. This got me thinking. If I
was using solid wood, I'd cut all my pieces to final size and start assembling.
Everything would end up flush. With frameless, should I iron on in place after
the piece is assembled. If I do that, piece thats started out flush will be
offest from each other.

If I iron on before assembly, then I need to take in account the thickness of
the edging when I rip/crosscut my pieces. Some pieces will be edged on 2 sides
whereas others will be edged on just one. That's a lot of math.

I understand your dilemma. When I use melamine I never use it leaving the exterior uncovered, i.e., that some cover is used. That cover would be a Formica type laminate (HPL), or wood veneer. So, what I do is use dadoes and rabbets, but the depth is only 1/8" deep (to get a good glue surface). Then the pieces are piloted and countersunk (one drill bit), and joined with glue and 2" coarse thread screws. Then the exposed outside surfaces are sanded flat, and covered with laminate, or veneer. Then the front edge is block sanded flat and laminated.

Melamine is not a laminate like HPL, but rather a chemical treatment to a composite substrate...usually industrial particle board. The iron on PVC tape recommended for melamine will work if you choose to leave the exterior melamine, but in that case, yes, you do have to do the math. And, you will see the thickness seam of the sheet stock you used.

.

[billwmeyer]

Cabinetman

Thanks for your post. I will go back to the drawing board, that is pretty much empty anyway, and rethink what I am going to do. I was going to plug the pocket screw holes, and I really don't like that look either.

Thanks.

Bill