Cove Molding

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  • Luckbox
    Established Member
    • Nov 2003
    • 371
    • Holly Springs, NC

    #1

    Cove Molding

    I am going to make my own cove molding with a jig on my table saw. My question is would it be better to use a cross cut blade or a ripping blade. I am thinking ripping blade since there is more room between the teeth for the saw dust.
    I love lamp.
  • pelligrini
    Veteran Member
    • Apr 2007
    • 4217
    • Fort Worth, TX
    • Craftsman 21829

    #2
    I did a couple cove cuts on some red oak to replicate some long curved drawer pulls on a chest I was restoring. From everything I read, more teeth and sharpness was recommended. I used a new 80T crosscut blade I had. The results turned out well. There was just a little sanding to remove the slight ridges. A foam sanding block shaped to your cove radius will help, especially if you're doing a lot.

    The amount of sawdust won't be too much of an issue, as you will be doing multiple passes raising the blade just a bit each time. You can't hog it all out in just a couple passes since the cutters on your blade aren't that long.
    Erik

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    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15216
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #3
      You could use either, but a crosscut blade will leave a smoother surface. I've used 60T with good results. The depth of cuts are very small.
      .

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      • capncarl
        Veteran Member
        • Jan 2007
        • 3791
        • Leesburg Georgia USA
        • SawStop CTS

        #4
        I have used the table saw to make several hundred lf of cove cuts for podiums and columns. The best results were with a new 60t freud blade. A lot of sanding was still required. All of my work was with #1 pine so a harder and better grade of wood should require less sanding. #2 pine and the lower grades required way too much sanding, so test your wood for the best results. For the finish I found that sanding the cove with a correct size sanding flapper wheel produced the best and quickest finish.
        capncarl

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        • Sid
          Established Member
          • Apr 2004
          • 139
          • Bloomington, IL, USA.
          • Craftsman 22124

          #5
          I haven't done a lot of cove cutting, but I did do some tests comparing the result of the same cove cut in oak with an 80 tooth crosscut and a 24 tooth rip blade. There wasn't a lot of difference, but the rip blade left a slightly smoother surface.

          I figure that since the work is going somewhat sideways through the blade, it is doing a scraping cut, and the flat-top rip teeth will scrape more smoothly than the beveled-top crosscut teeth. Think of scraping with a chisel compared to scraping with an awl.

          On the other hand, having more teeth would mean the scrapes are closer together. Perhaps a combination blade with higher tooth count and some flat-top raker teeth (typically 1 in 5 teeth) would give the best of both effects. I didn't do a test with a combination blade.

          Sid

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          • Luckbox
            Established Member
            • Nov 2003
            • 371
            • Holly Springs, NC

            #6
            Thanks for the help it looks like I am going to go witht he higher teeh count. I makes more sense, I was just wondering abuout the sawdut, but I guess since they are shallow cuts that it wont be as much as I am think in each pass.
            I love lamp.

            Comment

            • pelligrini
              Veteran Member
              • Apr 2007
              • 4217
              • Fort Worth, TX
              • Craftsman 21829

              #7
              There's not large amounts of sawdust, but it is pretty fine.

              Sid- Good point on the FTG blades. I was wondering that myself. I just didn't have a decent shart one to try it out on. I noticed that if I did a slower feed on the stock the results were a little bit smoother.
              Erik

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