Opinons on a 90 degree joint

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  • headhunter636
    Established Member
    • Jul 2004
    • 161
    • Federal Way, WA
    • Ryobi BT 3000

    #1

    Opinons on a 90 degree joint

    I am in the final stages of building a loft bed for my daughter and I am looking for some opinions. I used locking bed rail hooks for the mattress supports and now I am putting a 1x6 support along the sides and the back of the bed. This is to help firm up the bed as well as create something to mount the built in desk. The trick to it is that it has to be able to be broken down.

    I thought of two ways to do this. First, I thought about using pocket holes drilled into the 1x6 and then use threaded inserts in the 4x4 posts. This way I could take the screws in and out without worrying about screw holes getting stripped. Secondly, I thought about using the pin and cam idea that most store bought furniture is put together with, but I am not too keen on those just because I have only used them on the cheap furniture and not something like this.

    Anyone else have any opinions? One last detail, I am trying to keep the screws/bolts hidden, so I do not want to drill in from the outside of the 4x4.

    I attached a very rough drawing to show what I mean.

    Thanks.

    Dave
    Attached Files
    Dave

    BT3000

    "98% of all statistics are made up"
  • pelligrini
    Veteran Member
    • Apr 2007
    • 4217
    • Fort Worth, TX
    • Craftsman 21829

    #2
    I can't think of a knockdown joint that would be hidden unless you went with the bedrail hooks again, besides the cam one you mentioned.

    An exposed joint like a tusk tenon could still let it come apart, but that would probably look better if they were all like that.
    Erik

    Comment

    • headhunter636
      Established Member
      • Jul 2004
      • 161
      • Federal Way, WA
      • Ryobi BT 3000

      #3
      When I mean hidden, I am just talking about the exterior of the 4x4. The inner joint can be exposed.
      Dave

      BT3000

      "98% of all statistics are made up"

      Comment

      • pelligrini
        Veteran Member
        • Apr 2007
        • 4217
        • Fort Worth, TX
        • Craftsman 21829

        #4
        OK, I kind of assumed that when you mentioned the pocket holes. You might consider making that piece thicker than a 1x6. I was thinking it might look a little small when compared to the size of a 4x4.
        Erik

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        • sscherin
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2003
          • 772
          • Kennewick, WA, USA.

          #5
          I would use the bed rail hooks again..

          I used them on my Daughters bunk bed..
          It's quite solid and clean from all sides.
          Bonus is no hardware to loose or strip out.
          William's Law--
          There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it
          cannot be solved by brute strength and ignorance.

          Comment

          • LCHIEN
            Super Moderator
            • Dec 2002
            • 21830
            • Katy, TX, USA.
            • BT3000 vintage 1999

            #6
            Originally posted by sscherin
            I would use the bed rail hooks again..

            I used them on my Daughters bunk bed..
            It's quite solid and clean from all sides.
            Bonus is no hardware to loose or strip out.
            ditto on those
            Loring in Katy, TX USA
            If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
            BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

            Comment

            • phi1l
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2009
              • 681
              • Madison, WI

              #7
              ya .. I don't think you would be happy with pocket hole/insert idea. You would have to have the insert at a precise angle & location for it to work, & that would not be easy.

              If the back of the 1x6 is not going to be visible, you could put a cleat on the back. That way you would be drilling strait into the 4x4 for the insert.

              Comment

              • SARGE..g-47

                #8
                I would also go with a second set of rail attachments in this case using a mortice the thickness of the hardware to put them flush with the wood surface. I have to agree with Pelligrini about considering other than a 1 x 6.. the 6" is fine but 1" will throw off proportion used with a 4 x 4 IMO. It will work with that said.. just simply throw off the proportional look. Then again.. kids will likely be the only ones that will see it in reality. haha...

                Good luck...

                Comment

                • cabinetman
                  Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                  • Jun 2006
                  • 15216
                  • So. Florida
                  • Delta

                  #9
                  You could use a dual hook bedrail fastener that fits in a shallow mortise. Or, a non mortise fastener like this.
                  .

                  Comment

                  • headhunter636
                    Established Member
                    • Jul 2004
                    • 161
                    • Federal Way, WA
                    • Ryobi BT 3000

                    #10
                    I used the locking rail hooks from Rockler and mortised them into the 4x4 for the bed rails, this worked out well. Since the bottom rail will be hidden, I think I will use the cleat idea with inserts. As for using the 1x6, the proportion should not be an issue because it will be hidden by a built in desk and other things as well. The purpose of the rail is mostly to help firm up the bed and I was worried that using hooks again, it may still have a little bit of slop in it. I think I am going to use pocket holes for the board that will be permantly attached to the headboard and footboard. Again, these boards will be hidden as well by either a shelf or more desk.

                    For the actual mattress supports, I used a 2x6 and planned it down a little to square it up and also make it look nicer. We are using dimensional lumber and 1x's from Lowes (pine or fir) since we are trying to keep costs down and it will be moved a couple more times (haven't retired from the Army yet).

                    Thanks again for all the suggestions, they helped a lot. This is the largest project I have taken on in a long time and I am pretty much doing it from my head, making minimal drawings and plans as I go. My wife shows me pictures of what she wants, and I make it happen (like a good husband).

                    Dave
                    Dave

                    BT3000

                    "98% of all statistics are made up"

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