Sheathing & Roofing

[wd4lc]

I'll be building a basic outdoor animal house.

I have a couple of questions please about the wood and the roofing.

Can I use a 3-ply yellow pine sheathing that's listed as untreated and ideal usage for "weather protected application" if I prime and paint it? Will that hold up just as well outdoors as if I used CDX or exterior grade?

I want to use some sort of light roofing so that the whole thing can be easily moved. The roof is going to be flat or close to it. I think asphalt shingles will start to add up in terms of weight. Cedar planks would be great but way too expensive.

A few options I've searched and wonder your opinion on...
Just prime and paint the flat wood roof.
Flat roofing (the type you roll on).
Roof coating (it looks like you paint this on).
Corrugated roof paneling.

Thank you.

[chopnhack]

The ply you mention is listed as sheathing so it will have to be covered with appropriate roofing material to hold up to weather. In this situation I would recommend to use peel and seal type roofing material. Its not cheap, but if you will have near next to nothing slope, say 3/12 or less you will want the extra protection it affords. Is the area to be covered large? Is wind an issue? You mentioned keeping it light enough to move around so I am thinking it will be small. Keep in mind that one sheet is around 40-50 lbs IIRC for 3/8".

[wd4lc]

The ply you mention is listed as sheathing so it will have to be covered with appropriate roofing material to hold up to weather. In this situation I would recommend to use peel and seal type roofing material. Its not cheap, but if you will have near next to nothing slope, say 3/12 or less you will want the extra protection it affords. Is the area to be covered large? Is wind an issue? You mentioned keeping it light enough to move around so I am thinking it will be small. Keep in mind that one sheet is around 40-50 lbs IIRC for 3/8".

That peel and seal looks neat and easy. A little too pricey for this I think.

Yes it is definitely small. It's going to be around 4' x 2' x 18". That's a good point about wind. I hadn't thought about that.

Here is the link to the sheathing that I was talking about.

HD Link

Are you saying that only the roof would need to be covered with appropriate material or the walls as well..even if I prime and paint everything?

Thank you.

[chopnhack]

I agree it is pricey, you may be able to find smaller rolls of it though. In these parts I believe they sell a 4" wide version mean for taping the seams of plywood on roofs prior to felting. That might be a good option if the roll is long enough. Other options may be to ask around and see if you can buy remnants from jobs or even ask some of the foremen of roofing companies in your area. I am sticking with this recommendation because if you don't go this way you may end up spending the same but with more work. If you use roofing paper, how will you seal all the nail holes? Will the protruding nails on the underside be a hazard issue for the occupant? After papering you would need to shingle or cover with something else, so the savings are simply not there. Peel and seal and your done. Aesthetically, its a black surface so, IDK if that suits you. As far as wind is concerned, you may have to tie the structure down to some concrete pads to make sure in a storm it doesnt become a projectile. For the walls, the ply would really suck up the paint. You could do it but it would be never ending maintenance as the wood would still give off moisture while drying and then again as seasons change. The paint will take a beating and fatigue. You can do that, but you will paint every 4-5 years (depending on your exposure and location) down here. You could wrap in tyvek, again scraps from someone, or you could just get t-111 sheathing meant for siding and use spar varnish. FYI, get the smooth t-111 there are two types, there is a rough cut one with i think 4" spaces between grooves and then IIRC the 3" spacing is the smooth one. Coat both sides, obviously the outside will get more coats, but at least 1-2 coats on the back so that it seals the wood up. Good luck with your project

[Pappy]

With a 4x2 footprint you could go with a piece of R panel steel roofing. Call around and you might be able to pick up a drop from a local supplier or roofing company for next to nothing. It is slighter than asphalt roofing and nearly indestructable. Also a lot of color choices.

If you have a reason to be up my way, stop in. I have some white or some tan that I will hook you up with.

[iceman61]

For what you are building I wouldn't sink a big chunk on roofing materials. Peel & stick Ice&Water Barrier is a big chunk to spend on an animal house. It's great stuff & I use it alot, but I wouldn't shuck out big bucks on it to do a house for animals. OSB sheating, 15lb felt & 3-tab shingles (or metal as Pappy suggested) should be fine. You might want to get a couple of pieces of drip edge for the edge of the roof also.

[phi1l]

ya I would go with metal roofing, then you don't need any wood sheet goods for the roof.

[cabinetman]

I ran across this roofing material at Lowes when I built my shed. It's lightweight, easy to install, comes in 49"x79" and is less than $20.00/panel.
.

[pelligrini]

Another alternative to metal or ashpalt roofing is an elastomeric paint. I did a small (10'x2') awning over the front door of my shop last year. I used some t1-11 I had onhand for the decking and just coated it a couple times with the thick paint. A gallon wasn't exactly cheap, but it was less than what I was going to spend for felt, roofing, flashing etc. and I didn't end up with a bunch of nails sticking through the deck.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

The stuff I used was white, and had a longer exposure rating. I found it at lowes. They also carried some 9" wide rolls of the peel&stick that was fairly inexpensive. One thing about the self adhesive membranes, they are not designed for UV exposure.

I'll probably use the same coating on my doghouse I built this last fall once I decide on how I want to insulate and fabricate the top. The walls are t1-11, 2x4s, white bathroom wallboard interior sheathing with r13 batts in the cavity. I've got a couple pieces of 4x8 plywood on top for now. I haven't made the 5 doors for it yet either. It's a little bigger than yours, 13'x4'.

[Mr__Bill]

I grew up with old wooden boats. The cabin roof was always thin ply covered with canvas that was well painted (machinery enamel). Didn't leak and it's very light.

One of those fiberglass ribbed panels would work too and let in light. Another option is a piece of galvanized sheet metal.


Bill
over here in the rain

[wd4lc]

Thanks for all of the help. Seems as though there are some good options. I think the goal is to try and build this as inexpensive as possible without cutting too much quality. I guess that's about the same with everything!

I forgot to mention that the flat roof will be hinged so that it can be opened. With chopnhack's point on wind, I think I'll find a way to keep the front closed either with a latch or a simple rope/knob method.

pelligrini, I'm going to check out that aluminum coating. I think that is the front runner so far. It seems very easy and looks like its purpose is for flat roofs (with that added uv deflective bonus). The color probably isn't ideal but in this project I don't think aesthetics is going to be a priority.
I do have a couple of goofy questions. I assume this can be painted on wood? I didn't see that specifically stated on the description but I assume it can.
Will this application be safe for pets to sit on?

chopnhack, you mentioned that the walls made of that particular sheathing that I mentioned would be OK but that it would deteriorate faster than other wood even though it would be primed and painted. Is that accurate? Overall is stain preferred to prime/paint?

I guess what I'm wanting to know from everyone is if that wood is sufficient to use on the walls/base so long as it is prime/painted and if not what would be a good option (I saw t1 mentioned a few times). I'll basically need to get 2 of the 4x8 and therefore the price runs a little bit higher. As well, it is a bit of a pain to transport and so I really want to get something that will be sufficient.

Thanks.

[pelligrini]

You can fasten the roof with a simple hook & eyescrew latch too.

There is a myriad of those coatings. I linked to that one as it was one of the few I found on the HD website. In my case I used a different product from Lowes that I think was this siliconized water based elastomeric coating: http://www.lowes.com/pd_139937-29-55...ductId=3013308
Some of those products can be pretty thick. I made sure it could be applied with a roller, although I used a brush. Most any of them can be applied directly to wood. They weren't exactly designed for that type of installation. Most structures have more than just one material in the roof system. As far as safe for animals, can't really say. I don't see a problem.

If you don't make it taller than 32" you could cover the sides of a 24x48 with a single 4x8 sheet of T1-11, and use plywood for the top and bottom. I can't tell from the link on that plywood what type it is. Most plywood sheathing that says 'rated' usually has one lamination applied with an exposure rated glue. It is a little more resistant to water and shouldn't delamnate with limited exposure. It should be OK.

Be sure that the wood structure isn't in direct contact with the ground, set it up on bricks, pavers, CMU tiles etc.

[wd4lc]

You can fasten the roof with a simple hook & eyescrew latch too.

There is a myriad of those coatings. I linked to that one as it was one of the few I found on the HD website. In my case I used a different product from Lowes that I think was this siliconized water based elastomeric coating: http://www.lowes.com/pd_139937-29-55...ductId=3013308
Some of those products can be pretty thick. I made sure it could be applied with a roller, although I used a brush. Most any of them can be applied directly to wood. They weren't exactly designed for that type of installation. Most structures have more than just one material in the roof system. As far as safe for animals, can't really say. I don't see a problem.

If you don't make it taller than 32" you could cover the sides of a 24x48 with a single 4x8 sheet of T1-11, and use plywood for the top and bottom. I can't tell from the link on that plywood what type it is. Most plywood sheathing that says 'rated' usually has one lamination applied with an exposure rated glue. It is a little more resistant to water and shouldn't delamnate with limited exposure. It should be OK.

Be sure that the wood structure isn't in direct contact with the ground, set it up on bricks, pavers, CMU tiles etc.

I called HD to find out the rating on that plywood but there was no information on their computer (it's usually tough to get in touch with a lumber associate). If it is rated CDX would that be OK to use for the whole project and if so how do you identify which side is the exterior portion? I remember reading that x stands for exterior and C and D were the other layers that were generally considered bottom quality.

Reading on the T1-11 and checking out at Lowes yesterday, I see that there is a middle and offset version. Is that just how the pattern sits?
Does it matter if the slats are used vertical or horizontal? Also, how do you work with the ends that are sort of tongued to fit into another sheet. It's thinner than the rest of the board.

I'm thinking your route with the T1-11 sides and ply base/roof is the best option. The sides would last longer and be easier to stain or paint and the play would save a little bit of money. I'm going to dial back the original measurements.

I saw that roof coating at Lowes yesterday. Thank you. That's a keeper. The pavers and hook/eyescrew are as well.

Thanks again, pelligrini. After hearing your advice on this, I'll be ready to get it going. Much appreciated.

[chopnhack]

Quote: chopnhack, you mentioned that the walls made of that particular sheathing that I mentioned would be OK but that it would deteriorate faster than other wood even though it would be primed and painted. Is that accurate? Overall is stain preferred to prime/paint?

It's not that the wood would deteriorate faster, the paint finish on them take a beating. That was why I was recommending a spar varnish. Aesthetically it would look nicer as well, IMHO. Typically on walls T1-11 is run vertically.

[pelligrini]

I think the exterior side of CDX is usually the one that is stamped. You've got it right, one face is C quality, the other face is D and the X is for exposure. This stuff was designed for exterior sheathing where the finish of the plywood isn't important. The exposure rating is to allow a little leeway before the finish material is put on the exposure side. The wall can get a little wet during installation but still not delaminate. It's not designed for continuous exposure to the elements though. I would think that if the exterior side was painted it would hold up well.

My dogs used to occupy a big plywood box I'd put togeather in right before winter. It was mostly 1/2" CDX. The panels have lasted eight or nine years, unpainted. They have deteriorated quite a bit, but not too badly.

Most of the T1-11 I've seen has lips on each edge. The panels are a little wider than 48" so the lips can overlap and be fastened on a 48" stud spacing. When I covered the ends of my 48" deep doghouse I just ripped one off. Like chopnhack mentioned, it's usually installed vertically. My doghouse ended up having 32" tall walls because a 4x8 sheet of sheathing material would yield 3 lengths. I had HD cut it up on their panel saw into 32" strips. It certainly fit into my wife's Taurus better. My dogs are all half bassett, so it didn't need to be very tall. There's still plenty of headroom in each bay even with a heatlamp hanging from the ceiling.

Be sure to paint or seal the edges of the cut T1-11, especially the bottom edge. I had to replace a bunch of it on my shop/shed as the lower 12" had seriously deteriorated on the two sides where the rain drips off the roof. The water would splash on the ground and saturate the siding. The paint was the only thing holding it togeather in a few places.

You're certainly welcome, glad to be of help.