Maloof dresser in progress

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  • Michiganwood
    Forum Newbie
    • Jan 2019
    • 23
    • Michigan
    • Shop fox, no complaints

    #31
    This is the case with drawers installed and after rounding with the router. The drawer fronts are shown in the last pic

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    • atgcpaul
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2003
      • 4055
      • Maryland
      • Grizzly 1023SLX

      #32
      How are your drawer bottoms installed?

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      • Michiganwood
        Forum Newbie
        • Jan 2019
        • 23
        • Michigan
        • Shop fox, no complaints

        #33
        I make all four sides the same height. After dado blade cutting the 3/16 x1/4 channel I raise the blade to rip the back piece. So it’s shorter at exactly the heightof the drawer bottom. I glue and screw the drawers then cut the bottom and can slide it in. Then run a few screws to hold the bottom in.

        No no gue and if the bottom ever needs replaced it can be.

        Got it a damaged piece of aromatic cedar plywood for 28 bucks. It should make the cloths smell nice.

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        • Michiganwood
          Forum Newbie
          • Jan 2019
          • 23
          • Michigan
          • Shop fox, no complaints

          #34
          Got the stain on today.
          Paul. After you put your finish on you mentioned steel wool and wax. What kind of wax did you use?

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          • atgcpaul
            Veteran Member
            • Aug 2003
            • 4055
            • Maryland
            • Grizzly 1023SLX

            #35
            Originally posted by Michiganwood
            I make all four sides the same height. After dado blade cutting the 3/16 x1/4 channel I raise the blade to rip the back piece. So it’s shorter at exactly the heightof the drawer bottom. I glue and screw the drawers then cut the bottom and can slide it in. Then run a few screws to hold the bottom in.

            No no gue and if the bottom ever needs replaced it can be.

            Got it a damaged piece of aromatic cedar plywood for 28 bucks. It should make the cloths smell nice.
            Yes, that's approximately how I do mine, too, with the short side in the back to slide the bottom in and out. You'll find that traditionally the grain runs side to side rather than front to back to allow for expansion/contraction out the back, too.

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            • atgcpaul
              Veteran Member
              • Aug 2003
              • 4055
              • Maryland
              • Grizzly 1023SLX

              #36
              Originally posted by Michiganwood
              Got the stain on today.
              Paul. After you put your finish on you mentioned steel wool and wax. What kind of wax did you use?
              That's looking really nice with the stain! What will you topcoat it with?

              I don't remember what I used for wax. It was either Liberon brand or Myland/Briwax (yellow can with a honeycomb on it)--I've owned both. I made the mistake of waxing inside my drawer boxes and the solvent smell lasted for months! I use a homemade wax now of 50/50 mineral oil/beeswax. It's not as durable as the other waxes but it has a pleasant smell and still gives a nice feel to the project.

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              • Michiganwood
                Michiganwood commented
                Editing a comment
                I default to shellac. Easy to apply and dries fast. Was thinking about wool and wax this time. I’m pressed to complete by Sunday and am not an expert finisher.
            • atgcpaul
              Veteran Member
              • Aug 2003
              • 4055
              • Maryland
              • Grizzly 1023SLX

              #37
              It's too bad you don't have more time to finish. I still like to topcoat over shellac. I think for this project I made a wiping varnish following the recipe in a Fine Woodworking Magazine. It dries pretty quickly between coats, gives a really nice finish, but you won't have it ready for Saturday.

              Most recently I actually also started using Watco thinned with mineral spirits. That also builds pretty well and also dries pretty quickly. On my most recent projects, I could get 2 thinned down coats on in a day.

              Looking forward to the big reveal.
              Last edited by atgcpaul; 01-24-2019, 01:49 PM.

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              • Michiganwood
                Michiganwood commented
                Editing a comment
                What’s your wiping recipe? I want to find an easy go-to finish and get rid of all my other stuff.
                This shellacking is getting old. I need to develop patience....
            • capncarl
              Veteran Member
              • Jan 2007
              • 3564
              • Leesburg Georgia USA
              • SawStop CTS

              #38
              I use shellac quite a bit on my Tiny Tables. I always finish with a paste wax. If the wood is a tight grain I sometime use Mcguiars gold class carnuma past wax, I like this wax because it hardens quickly and the glaze buffs off quickly and produces a glass like shine, but like I said, it depends on the wood, if it is an open grain wood or has a lot of cracks the white glaze of the wax fills the cracks and creates a lot of work with a tooth brush getting it out. My usual finish is Watco danish oil natural, medium walnut or dark walnut followed up with paste wax. I like using Howard’s citrus wax that is colored with whatever I want the finish to be. This eliminates the problem of having to clean out the white wax glaze out of the grain and cracks. The problem I found with following up with paste wax after an oil finish is the wax seems to take forever to harden and be able to buff out. I don’t always have the luxury to wait a week after an oil finish to wax.

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              • Michiganwood
                Michiganwood commented
                Editing a comment
                After your last coat of shellac dries what’s next?this is what I’m reading.?
                1. Light sanding 400 grit
                2. Apply wax with 00 wool
                3. Buff wax off with 0000 wool
                4. Wipe with rag?
            • atgcpaul
              Veteran Member
              • Aug 2003
              • 4055
              • Maryland
              • Grizzly 1023SLX

              #39
              I liked this recipe from Fine Woodworking and it did live up to its claims--easy to make, use, sand, imparted nice color--but if you don't use it frequently it's wasteful and you end up with a bunch of extra turpentine and Japan drier.

              mixed 10 parts Pratt & Lambert No. 38 alkyd varnish and pure tung oil, added 2 to 3 parts pure spirits of gum turpentine, and zapped the mix with 2 parts of Japan drier.


              ​​​​​​On my later projects it was just easier to buy Watco from Home Depot.

              Comment

              • Michiganwood
                Forum Newbie
                • Jan 2019
                • 23
                • Michigan
                • Shop fox, no complaints

                #40
                got Everything finished tonight. Really happy that I was able to reach you on this thread. I think things turned out well for my current skill set and time available. Couple things I would have done different but live and learn. Paul thanks again for the inspiration and taking the time to make such thorough posts. Made the wife happy so can’t ask for more than that. I’ll post some better pics later when it’s with the other bedroom furniture.

                Comment

                • atgcpaul
                  Veteran Member
                  • Aug 2003
                  • 4055
                  • Maryland
                  • Grizzly 1023SLX

                  #41
                  That looks fantastic. Congratulations on a great job

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