Carpet Conundrum

[Lefty]

I'm torn. I'm putting together a huge built-in entertainment center on one end of my living room. I'm wondering if I should cut the carpet out at the point where the base stands, or leave it.

On the one hand; If I leave it, some settling may occur. I can probably wedge it in there pretty tight to minimize this.

On the other hand; If I cut it out, I'll have to put down tack strips and re-stretch the carpet.

I'm leaning toward just leaving it, but I'm wondering if I'm missing a compelling reason to remove it.

[toolguy1000]

i would leave it.

[twistsol]

We have a huge entertainment center in our family room that is built in. Unfortunately, it doesn't fit a 50" Plasma and is essentially useless. We can't take it out because the there is no carpet under it and we would need to re carpet the entire family room.

I would leave the carpet in place, you may need or want something different in a few years when we are all getting 3d hologram TVs.

[cabinetman]

I would install on the carpet.
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[LarryG]

It partly depends on how thick the carpet is, partly on how picky you are. The carpet and pad WILL compress, and unless the carpet is very thin it will appear to take a nose-dive where it goes under the built-in's base. It will look different as compared to other areas, where the carpet extends (presumably) under the shoe mould. The different look would bother me; it might not bother you.

Chr's raises a valid objection that will apply to some, since we're now all in this transition phase from square-ish CRT-based TVs to flat screens. Normally, built-ins will have a longer life than carpet.

[herb fellows]

To prevent 'squashing' the carpet as much, maybe you could get something like the somewhat flexible plastic sheets they use under rolling chairs in offices? Staples or any other office supply store probably has it.

[Lefty]

Thanks for the input, all.

The carpet squish factor isn't something to worry about here. The carpet is fairly flat and the padding is not very high.

At some point, I may be pulling out the carpet and putting in new or making the transition to wood flooring. With the kind of molding I'm putting around the base, I should be able to adjust without much trouble.

I'm hopefully making the TV spot wide enough to accommodate as wide a TV as is tasteful for a room of this size. Of course the 3D hologram emitters are pretty small, so it won't be a problem once those become standard.

[cgallery]

One vote for removing the carpeting.

I'd kick it off the tack strips and roll it back. I'd install the entertainment center, then call a carpet installer and have them come stretch/kick it back down around the center.

[crokett]

I would leave the carpet.

[gerti]

Just keep in mind that where the nailing strip is right now it will not compress as much as the rest of the carpet. We put some bookshelves in, and after a while they started leaning as the carpet under the front compressed while the back was pretty much settled on the nailing strips.

[Lefty]

Good point. I believe the carpet strip is under the baseboard radiator which I'm building around, but I'll check.

The carpet is definitely staying. Once I started entertaining the idea and getting further input, the more attractive it is.

Thanks, all for your input.

[cabinetman]

Just keep in mind that where the nailing strip is right now it will not compress as much as the rest of the carpet. We put some bookshelves in, and after a while they started leaning as the carpet under the front compressed while the back was pretty much settled on the nailing strips.

There are parameters to the design and fabrication to cabinets to facilitate installation variables. The variables to consider is the type of floor/flooring/carpet/pad, and whether there is a tack strip, shoe or base moulding. Installations may require fitting to existing conditions. IOW, scribing the cabinet to fit the wall/floor, and in many cases not having the option to remove, cut/notch existing moulding to accommodate the cabinet.

Making a loose toe kick (if the design will warrant) starts off in the right direction as installing and leveling is easier than working with an entire cabinet. Allowing enough scribe to cut to fit, will allow the remainder of the ends and front of the toe kick to sit level.

Rear sections of the toe kick that are the parallel cross member to the front of the toe kick can be made a distance forward enough to clear any tack strip, or shoe, or base moulding. As for the settling, in some cases with very thick carpet and pad, and the cabinet will be attached to the wall, it may be worthwhile to temporarily secure (for safety reasons) the cabinet to allow for settling, and then later install more permanently.

Ultimately these details should be part of the planning and design for the project.
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[sleddogg]

I have seen where high end speakers, the kind which weigh several hundred pounds, have metal spikes that they sit on allowing them to not compress the carpet so they can be repositioned without leaving the unmistakable indentation behind. Depending on how costly these spikes would be and how large the bottom surface of the entertainment center, I could see a platform using these spikes to hold everything up and incorporating trim boards to conceal the elevation. They are available at most Hi Fi shops and just screw into a recessed nut that you would have to drill in for.
Hope this helps.
Lance