Cutting boards - Any species to stay away from?

[jussi]

I'm thinking of making some cutting boards. I'd like to avoid buying more wood and just use scraps I have. I've got Mahagony, maple, cedar, pine, and poplar. Are these all ok to use? Any health hazards these species might have? Are there species (not necessarily the ones I mentioned) that I should avoid in the future?

[Uncle Cracker]

Hemlock, for one...

[Martin]

US forest service Wood Handbook

search for cutting boards and the recommendation is Hard Maple. I didn't see any section with wood not recommended.

[Eric]

Hemlock, for one...

Saw the subject line and immediately thought hemlock too.

[Uncle Cracker]

Here is a pretty good wood toxicity chart. There are many others floating around on the web. Many exotic woods are only irritants or allergy triggers, but many others are far worse.

[pelligrini]

The cedar and poplar might not fair too well after some use, they're pretty soft woods.

[steve-norrell]

I have had pretty good luck with walnut, cherry and maple.

At first I had some problems with padauk and purple heart, but once I learned to wipe the adjoining face with acetone (allow plenty of drying time) before gluing, they also worked well.

I would second the opinion that poplar and cedar would be too soft; oak is too porous for my liking, but I have seen it used with a good filler of wax and oil. I have some serious allergy issues with cedar and I have learned that cedar allergies are not all that rare.

I recommend Titebond III glue and there are plenty of recommendations and recipes for a 'butcher block' finish on this site and elsewhere.

Good Luck, regards, Steve

[tseavoy]

Maple. If you don't have that, use maple.

Tom on Marrowstone

[jussi]

Thanks guys. I guess I won't be saving any money using only scraps
Well if I have to buy I guess I can use a species I've wanted to work with, purple heart. I was thinking that and maple for a color contrast? Are those good choices?

[herb fellows]

The cedar and poplar might not fair too well after some use, they're pretty soft woods.

i had the same thought about the pine.

[scmhogg]

I'm inclined to agree with Tom.. Maple is clearly the best. Using exotics is risky at best. A mineral oil finish is not enough to encapsulate the bad stuff.

This board is maple with two cherry strips for contrast. The dots on the side are caps covering the threaded rod, washers and nuts that I used to hold the thing together, forever.





Steve

[Knottscott]

... Are there species (not necessarily the ones I mentioned) that I should avoid in the future?

Canines...especially angry Rottweilers. (DAMHIKT)

[mschrank]

Thanks guys. I guess I won't be saving any money using only scraps
Well if I have to buy I guess I can use a species I've wanted to work with, purple heart. I was thinking that and maple for a color contrast? Are those good choices?

Great choices. I made this one a couple years ago and it has held up well and still looks good:

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-...-above-part-1/

Marc describes several finish choices...I went with the "salad bowl" finish and it has not needed to be re-done yet. I use the board daily and can hardly see any knife marks on it due the end grain construction.

[phrog]

I've never used them but have been told that Purpleheart and Padauk will change colors drastically if exposed to sunlight and the "new" color is not very appealing.
Richard

[mschrank]

I've never used them but have been told that Purpleheart and Padauk will change colors drastically if exposed to sunlight and the "new" color is not very appealing.
Richard

Purpleheart changes to a brownish/red, but looks great in contrast to maple.