PolyShade

[Luckbox]

I don't know if anyone here has ever used the minwax polyshades, but if anyone has are there any tips. I tried to use this on a frame I just finished and the poly was very difficult to work with. In tight corners it pooled and was nearly impossible to get rid of the drip lines. Seemed line it started to dry almost immediately, so that by your 3rd brush stroke it was sticky and was leaving brush marks. I used a presatin before applying, but eh polyshade itself was blotchy. I finally took mineral spirits to the frame and striped as much as I could from the frame, and will start over wit probably just some basic color matched paint due to the only reason I bought it was it was the only stain I could find in the color I want. But either this stuff is just worthless or there must be some secret to applying it and having it look good. Just wondering if anyone else has had any experience with it.

[dbhost]

Just FWIW, and I am NO expert in this area, but I do have a lot of experience with Minwax products over the years. The Polyshades products sound great on paper, but getting a clean, smooth, even finish is from what I have seen, next to impossible.

One thing to consider when going with a stain / poly is that the poly is going to add additional depth / color on top of the stain, typically a lightish honey gold sort of hue. And each finish of poly adds a deeper hue, as does each coat.

[Uncle Cracker]

Certain corners are better not cut... More often than not, you'll get better results if you use a separate stain, which soaks into the work much better than when mixed together with a finish.

[SARGE..g-47]

I tried it about 6 years ago and unless they have changed the formula... I consider it worthless. Blotchy stain.. gummy.. PITA.. chose your own adjectives. Poly is hard enought to work with with brushing it on to begin with.. muuch less adding stain to it and expecting it to be evenly mixed.

So.. I would never use it again personally nor would I brush for the reason you mentioned about corners... etc. When I use poly I cut it with naptha.. wipe it on with a folded cotton cloth and I do it on components un-assembled that have been blue taped off. At this point.. using poly is a piece of cake as the wiping took the problems out. You just have to use more coats but with faster drying from cutting with naptha.. it really doesn't take any longer IMO.

[Pappy]

best tip for using Polyshades is DON'T!

[cabinetman]

The one-step type finishes are attractive to the DIY'er thinking that the result will be sufficient and hassle free. It's a marketing move just like the words on a Minwax can that says "stains and seals", which it doesn't. Another similar type product is whitewash/pickling finishes. Much better results can be achieved by mixing your own combination of ingredients that suit your taste.

One problem with any finish is that brushing on usually applies too much unmanageable finish. Most finishes whether brushed or sprayed perform better when done in thin applications.
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[pelligrini]

I'm still suprised that they are still on the market. I don't like tham at all. I used some on my first projects years ago and it was a disaster. With the poly, it's even harder to fix bad areas.

[drillman88]

I tried the honey pine several years ago the only way I could get a descent look was to thin about 50% with mineral spirits and wipe on several thin coats. It was still easy to get darker areas if you werent very careful. I never tried the darker shades but I would tend to agree everyone else, go the normal stain and finish if you can.

[kevincan]

I tried the polyshade on a small project several years ago and agree with what has already been said. It is to hard to use and get a consistent color without blotching. It may be one more step to stain first but in the long run it will be less trouble to do that and then poly on top.

[partialresponse]

I still have the can of that stuff I bought 5 years ago sitting on a shelf in my garage. Why, I don't know. It's practically worthless and not worth the can into which it's poured. There's sufficient unanimity on the topic here. 'Nuff said.

- Kofi

[RAV2]

I used it once.

The effect you get is like a coffee spill on wood - kind of cloudy.

What you miss is the dept you get from color below a sealing coat.

If I was going to do it again, I'd opt for an unstained finish with tongue oil. Much better - one coat/step - results.

[Luckbox]

Thanks for all the input. It wasn't my first choice but the color was the closest I saw to what I was trying to match. I will be taking the can to the dump for proper removal. I have striped as much as I could off and I am going to get the color paint matched and simply paint the frame now. Will probably match the table better anyways.

Glad to know that it wasn't just me that had issues with this product.

[tfischer]

Add me to the list of people who recommend against Polyshades.

I only use it if I absolutely need to get a project done in a short window of time. For example, I just installed a handrail at my FIL's over father's day. I didn't even know I was going to be doing the project until he asked me to when we got there, and we were only there for one night -- not enough time for a coat of stain plus a few coats of poly. It was pushing it just to do two coats of Polyshades.

My one tip if you must use this stuff is to brush it on, let it sit a couple minutes, then wipe it, gently in one direction, sort of like you would wipe-on poly. This will help minimize the runs and darker/thicker blotches. With the handrail, it was actually fairly acceptable results.

-Tim

[pelligrini]

The few times I did use the stuff it did help to sand well, especially to a finer grit.