What Oil? Refinishing Outdoor Cedar Furniture

[430752]

Not sure if this belongs here as it is not a project I'm building or built, but here goes anyway. I've got outdoor cedar furniture that had a nice, rich finish of some sort of oil (I'm guessing). As these things happen, the finish is getting dull and I don't want to let the cedar go to its natural silver-grey color. So I want to reapply an oil, but which? Teak? Tung? Danish? I've been doing some reading and find that all of them, in commonly available forms, are nothing but a combo of predominately varnish/mineral spirits and some minimal unknown oil, generally linseed, despite the various names.

I'm not trying to go crazy here the way I might with a handmade project, just to restore the luster and keep some good outdoor furniture going. So, can any of these be recommended (e.g., Behr danish oil, Cabot tung oil, minwax teak oil, etc.) I'm going to apply with steel wool, any better ideas?

Thanks in advance.

[Richard in Smithville]

I like using Circa 1850 Tung Oil on cedar. It penetrates nicely and brings out the colour. Stay away from anything that leaves a film finish unless you like to dig peeling finish out of every nook and cranny.

[cabinetman]

The darkening of Cedar is from mold and mildew, and a depletion of oils in the wood. The wood can be cleaned which requires basically oxalic acid which depending on the product may require neutralization after the application. Using fine bronze wool, and a stiff brush and or toothbrush for the corners, rub the surfaces to clean and at the same time the mold and mildew spores are killed.

Varnishes and any film finish traps the wood and will fail in short order depending on the exposure. Doing a re-finish to that will require a lot of sanding to remove the flakey crystallized finish. I prefer to use 100% pure Tung oil, thinned with naptha. BLO can also be used, but may add an ambering effect. This finish will also require maintenance as time evolves, but only for a good wipe down and a re-oil. Much less effort than film finishes.

There are UV inhibitors available as an additive which may prolong your maintenance intervals. Oil finishes, like Watco Teak Oil Finish, or Danish Oil Finish are a mix of basically BLO, varnish and mineral spirits. The tip off is the word "Finish". Unless the can/label says 100% Pure Tung Oil, it isn't pure oil.
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[SARGE..g-47]

I would also use tung oil for outside if you want it natural. But.. I would apply and keep it wiped down for several days in a dry area. Tung takes the longest to dry of all the oils and I rarely use it for inside furniture alone. But.. a long time ago when my relatives farmed down south.. they always used tung oil on garden hoes.. shovels.. rakes.. axe handles.. etc. that got exposed to moisture and it holds up quite a while even though it will not totally block water.

Good luck...

[poolhound]

I built an outside table last year and had the same dilemma. I used a purchased mixture of Tung Oil, BLO and poly (sam maloof from Rockler). Its a really nice finish but for outside choosing a finish is a real catch 22.

Oils are easiest to apply but are usually the least durable. Film coatings such as a varnish are usually better and last longer but can peel. The weather here in PHX is obviously not wet but it is very hot (to say the least) I have already had to rub it down and refinish it once and its looking like it could use another go over.

My original thought was to give it a light coat of oil every few months but of course I havent kept that up.

[atgcpaul]

Fine Woodworking Mag just did a year long clear finish test. Article is here
if you have an online subscription:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki....aspx?id=32304

They chose Epifanes Marine Finish. It kept all the wood samples looking
relatively new in 5 different climates around the country.

Paul

[radhak]

I have a similar 'project', except that mine has already turned silver/grey. I tried sanding it with a ROS but am not happy with my progress, and am dreading all the nooks and corners.

CM, did you say oxalic acid could help clean this? Is that something I could buy?

And about using tung oil - how often should it be re-done? Like every few months? And each time, should I wait till it starts greying, or would that be too late?

How about tung followed by varnish/poly over it?

[cabinetman]

I have a similar 'project', except that mine has already turned silver/grey. I tried sanding it with a ROS but am not happy with my progress, and am dreading all the nooks and corners.

CM, did you say oxalic acid could help clean this? Is that something I could buy?

It may be called by other names, like "wood bleach". Don't confuse this with Clorox.

And about using tung oil - how often should it be re-done? Like every few months? And each time, should I wait till it starts greying, or would that be too late?

You should be able to tell by the way it looks.

How about tung followed by varnish/poly over it?

IMO, that would defeat the purpose for using oil in the first place.
.

[JR]

I'm using BLO these days. It requires re-application once or twice a year. "Permanent" finishes aren't.

JR

[430752]

Thanks to all. Yeah, as CM noted, finishes seem to be something to stay away from, which is why I was dismayed when I looked at so called tung or danish oils (what do they do, squeez a dane for oil?). When I saw they were mostly varnish and mineral spirits with some oil, I became suspicious. So, I'll try to find a real 100% tung or BLO.

I was also thinking Penofin or Duckbrand Superdeck stain, but want to stay with oil as I'm sure I'm gonna need to oil every spring and fall, figuring any stain, finish, or etc. needs to be stripped or at least some repair before recoating.

Now, anyone gonna tell me not to apply whatever oil with a fine grade steel wool? I figure this will even out the current surface, help dig in the new oil, and rough up prior coats?

Thanks

[radhak]

Fine Woodworking Mag just did a year long clear finish test. Article is here
if you have an online subscription:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki....aspx?id=32304

They chose Epifanes Marine Finish. It kept all the wood samples looking
relatively new in 5 different climates around the country.

Paul

Thanks for the link Paul - very good review there.

I am sufficiently impressed by their report to order the 'winner' (Epiphane) for myself :

[JR]

Now, anyone gonna tell me not to apply whatever oil with a fine grade steel wool? I figure this will even out the current surface, help dig in the new oil, and rough up prior coats?

You can try any of the tricks you know. Rub in the oil with fine sandpaper, steel wool, abrasive pad, etc. But here's my qualitative advice.

It's outdoor furniture. It's never going to be perfect. Do whatever sanding it takes to get it to feel "good enough" to your touch. Slather on some oil. Wipe it off. Pop a cold beverage.

JR

[cwithboat]

Penofin has given me superb results, long lasting and no graying. And it is not $45 a quart.

[schloff]

I built a cedar railing for my patio, used a marine grade poly. It cracked and peeled like crazy after about 8 months. Looks like crap now. I'll be sanding and trying BLO, maybe thin it with terpentine.

Southern TN. Hot, muggy summers.

[rnelson0]

It's outdoor furniture. It's never going to be perfect. Do whatever sanding it takes to get it to feel "good enough" to your touch. Slather on some oil. Wipe it off. Pop a cold beverage.

And when you drop a fork tines down or whack it with the edge of a garden implement, you will feel much better about not spending the extra time anyway. I have just restored an old bench and I noticed some sanding marks when I was putting finish on. I thought about going back (which would include three or four grades of sanding and restaining), but realized the wood is warped and really of dubious quality to begin with (the 4x4 leg posts look like they were glued up out of 1x1 scraps, or smaller), so why bother? Adds a little character, plus my butt should be covering that part of the seat anyway