How do I matt a finish?

[ironhat]

I painted a totally ugly, utility grade Remington 870 shotgun(remeber when they ame out with the very cheap ones to be sold in department and discount stores in the early ''70s?. I painted the stock in a Rustoleum "Stone" textured paint and it was *great*! Since firearms are tools and get bumped about I decided that this finish would benefit from a coating or three of satin, Minwax polyvinyl acrylic. Well, satin ain't flat and now my perfect turkey gun is a gleeming eyesore. What do you think - shouldn I give it another coat and as it's setting up, dobb it with cheesecloth to mute the sheen? Would that work or am I back to square one - strip, prime and paint?

[Rich P]

I would think a quick rub out with fine steel wool should work fine.

[Daryl]

Hah, I painted a Marlin 60 with the same stuff. Mine is a ugly green tho. and it does sparkle in the sun. My plan has been to give it a camo type paint job when I get a chance.

[ironhat]

I would think a quick rub out with fine steel wool should work fine.

This stuff is *really* bumpy andheavily textured. I'd either be knocking off teh texture or I'd have steel wool stuck all over it. Good thought, though. If there was a solvent...

Hah, I painted a Marlin 60 with the same stuff. Mine is a ugly green tho. and it does sparkle in the sun. My plan has been to give it a camo type paint job when I get a chance.

It came out glossy, Daryl? Wow, not even close here in it's original finish. It *was* perfect before my brainiac trick!

[Ed62]

I don't have any magic tips for you Chiz. But your post about the 870 sure brought back memories. I had one that dated before the 70s, but someone stole it right out of my house! Sure had some good times with it.

Ed

[cabinetman]

You could add another clear coat with a flattening agent. They are usually amorphous silica (or crystalline silica) and are available to be compatible with the type of coating used. It can be very toxic. Heed all warnings and directions for use. You can find it at any dedicated paint and coatings supplier, such as Sherwin Williams.
.

[Wood_workur]

I've found that if you want a nice non gloss finish your best bet is to apply only gloss and then rub it down to the sheen you want. This way the finish isn't cloudy.

I'd hit it with some 320 now, then a coat or two of gloss, a final rub down with 320 then some steel wool.

[ironhat]

You haven't seen one of these finishes, Alex. It's like someone putting bits of stics and dirt into wet paint. There is no capacity to sand this finish. It's just too coarse but it's great for getting a grip on the stock. Man, I'm upset with myself.

[leehljp]

You haven't seen one of these finishes, Alex. It's like someone putting bits of stics and dirt into wet paint. There is no capacity to sand this finish. It's just too coarse but it's great for getting a grip on the stock. Man, I'm upset with myself.

HF has a sandblaster!

Here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30979
or here: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=93221

Have fun!

[pecker]

The Borg's carry a product, which I think is called Liquid Sandpaper. It's for removing gloss on a paint job between coatings.

http://www.thewinningfinish.com/plas...iquidSandpaper

[Roloff]

Pecker already mentioned the product that came to mind: Liquid sander can knock the gloss off. If you want, you can then spritz a few coats of a matte finish on it, I'd use a spray can.

[ironhat]

Good thought, pecker. I think that I may just have some of that around!