Paint Recommendations for Furniture?

[Gator95]

Will be painting new vanity soon, once I get the last couple parts milled. I've never painted a project before- at least not one that wasn't disposible.

Vanity is Poplar frame with some birch plywood panels. Plan on priming first with Zinzer BIN. Color will be black, satin finish.

Any recommendations on paint to use? Will be brushing on, possibly using small roller for the side and bottom panels. Do not have place to do spray.

Debating merits of an oil-based alkyd enamel vs. waterborne latex plus a leveling aid like floetrol.

[dewi1219]

I highly recommend Benjamin Moore Impervo paint - it was suggested to me here when I asked the same question.

I used the satin oil-base Impervo with Floetrol, and the finish turned out beautifully. 1.5 years later it still looks the same - no chips, flaking, etc.

[Tom Slick]

Double check with your paint supplier that the paint/sheen you are going to use dries hard. I know with Sherwin Williams paints certain sheens of latex stay soft which is miserable on furniture, everything sticks to it for years.

Too bad you don't have a place to spray, laquer turns out awesome on furniture.

[ivwshane]

I know this is an old thread but the previous poster hit on a problem I've come up against.
I completed some built in bookcases and primed and then painted them with latex. It's been several months and anything I set on them sticks to them (the paint remains in tact and no marks are left). I have another project to do and I want to finish it right. How do I paint furniture with so that the finish feels hard and smooth and doesn't stick to things?

Also are my bookcases salvageable?

What is the process for painting and what are the materials I should be using finish wise?

Thanks.

[ivwshane]

Bumping an old thread doesn't bring it to the front page?

[cabinetman]

I know this is an old thread but the previous poster hit on a problem I've come up against.
I completed some built in bookcases and primed and then painted them with latex. It's been several months and anything I set on them sticks to them (the paint remains in tact and no marks are left). I have another project to do and I want to finish it right. How do I paint furniture with so that the finish feels hard and smooth and doesn't stick to things?

Also are my bookcases salvageable?

What is the process for painting and what are the materials I should be using finish wise?

Thanks.

The characteristic for items to be sticking is called "blocking". Depending on the sheen of the paint used, both latex and oil base can be subject to blocking. Oil base paints can have a long "cure" time, and should over time become resistant to blocking. The higher sheen of a latex when cured fares better than semi-gloss or flat finishes.

If you can spray a finish (compressor/gun), a lacquer finish, or a waterbase polyurethane would be your best bet. If you can't spray, lacquer is available as a brushing lacquer. With waterbase finishes, latex can be added to waterbase polyurethane, or clear, can be tinted with a color.

To save what you have, if time doesn't provide a cure, you can overcoat with an oil base paint, or a waterbase polyurethane, but NOT with a lacquer.

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[ivwshane]

Thanks! Is there a particular brand of polyurethane I should go with if I want to continue using latex?

Is there a type of latex I should be using as well? Or any interior paint should do?

[woodturner]

I completed some built in bookcases and primed and then painted them with latex. It's been several months and anything I set on them sticks to them (the paint remains in tact and no marks are left).

One of the "benefits" of latex is that it never fully cures - it remains flexible and "sticky", to a degree, forever.

Oil paints dry to a hard finish, but you are likely to have problems applying oil paint over latex. If you use a sealing coat between the layers, you may get it to work, but you will have problems if you apply oil paint directly over the latex.

Pure acrylic paint would be another option - it can be applied over the latex and will cure to harder finish. Note that "100% pure acrylic" paint is DIFFERENT than "acrylic latex" paint.

As a general rule, applying different classes of materials over each other will cause problems - so applying any poly, oil paint, or anything else other than latex paint or a "close relative" such as acrylic over the latex paint will give poor results at best and cause problems like crazing at worst, depending on the particular combination of products.

If it were me, I would strip it to bare wood, seal and prime with a shellac-based sealer/primer such as Zinser Coverall, then paint with an oil-based paint.

Note that environmental restrictions have resulted in labeling changes for oil-based paint. As of a few years ago, oil-based paint could only be sold for use on metal, so don't be surprised or concerned if the cans say they are only for metal. As I recall, a quart is the largest size that could be sold for non-metal use, and that may have changed by now.

[cabinetman]

Thanks! Is there a particular brand of polyurethane I should go with if I want to continue using latex?

Is there a type of latex I should be using as well? Or any interior paint should do?

Most of the waterbased polyurethanes work about the same. Some seem more durable than others. I've switched from lacquer to WB poly about 20 years ago for most all my finishing. Off the shelf at HD, Parks Pro Finisher would work well, and a catalyst is available. It's recommended for finishing floors, and works as well on furniture.

As for a latex, an interior type would likely be available in a higher sheen. Any of the "best" of the popular brands will work well. I wouldn't recommend using a straight latex for furniture items.

If you choose to use an oil base paint, lightly scuff sand the finish with 320x, and paint. You could use a sealer like Zinseer Seal Coat as a primer. I've painted over latex with oil base paint with no problems. I wouldn't recommend putting latex over oil base.

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[All Thumbs]

I used the General Finishes Milkpaint. It comes in milk paint colors. But many of them are quite appealing. It isn't REAL milk paint. It is a very high quality acrylic that doesn't block. I never even prime under it, believe it or not, and it holds up great.

A real milk paint would be another option. But you do have to top coat it with some sort of protection, like poly. Otherwise it wicks up moisture from glasses, cans, etc., and you get permanent rings.

I've also used many enamels from big bog stores. Like Dutch Boy. Anything that says it is a kitchen/bath cabinet ENAMEL is design to harden, and not block. The prices on these are certainly lower than what you would find on the milk paint products, and the color choices are endless.

I have never used the Benjamin Moore products or Sherwin Williams products. They are probably very, very good. Just remember the word ENAMEL when asking for help. Tell them it is going on furniture and you want a hard, durable, non-blocking finish.

[cwsmith]

Early last winter (around Thanksgiving) I built a small "end table" for the library. My wife wanted a high-gloss black finish.

I would have preferred something like black polyurethane, but neither of us can handle the odor of oil-based finishes and my shop is in the basement. So Lowes recommended Valspar High Gloss Black latex.

I sprayed it on and it looked great and the gloss was terrific. BUT, the finish is tacky even to this day! So much so that anything placed on the surface will not only stick, but also leave an imprint. (I waited a week between each of the two coats.)

This table was made from scrap, so the material investment was nothing. But the finish, though still very black and glossy, is quite disappointing. Even something as light as the cord to my ear-buds, stuck and left its mark.

We had the local Valspar rep look at the finish and though he agreed on the disappointing tackyness, the only solution he had was to provide a top coat of thier "Faux Finish Clear Protector". He said that it should not be sprayed on, and to use a brush. I haven't done that because I think most brush finishes simply don't come out the way I like.

CWS

[ivwshane]

Thanks for the reply's guys.

What finish is typically used on traditional painted cabinets? Gloss, semi gloss, satin, or eggshell?