design help

[Black wallnut]

Mods if you think this is in the wrong section please move it; hahahaha

Any way back at the ranch I'm planning to build a combination outfeed table as wide as my saw cart a.k.a. (non)mobile base and work bench. This will be about 7' wide by 3' deep and about 1/32 lower than the saw. I am planning to use a base made from 2"x6" T&G pine with the T&G ripped off with 4 corners and top and lower rails supporting a torsion box of 3/4" MDF with a replaceable top of 1/4" hardboard, edged with 1"x4" pine.

What are your thoughts on if this will be stiff enough or will the top need more support.

[DUD]

Mark

In My opinon I think it would be fine, now You can get some expert advice from the rest

of the forum. Bill

[Alex Franke]

Mods if you think this is in the wrong section please move it; hahahaha

What?!? What kind of forum do you think this is? What the heck is an outfeed table??

Seriously, though, does the torsion box really need to be 3/4 MDF? I would think you could go lighter than that if the torsion box is thick enough.

The replaceable hardboard top is a great idea. I might have to steal that one!

[Black wallnut]

What?!? What kind of forum do you think this is? What the heck is an outfeed table??

Seriously, though, does the torsion box really need to be 3/4 MDF? I would think you could go lighter than that if the torsion box is thick enough.

The replaceable hardboard top is a great idea. I might have to steal that one!

I'm thinking the internal cross members only being 1 1/2". I want 3/4" thick for rigidity and weight. I really do not want this to move on it's own when I'm using it as a work bench but I also do not want to over build it.

[cabinetman]

I would opt for a 3/4" MDF or 3/4" plywood top with the 1/4" tempered Masonite cap. All I would use beneath the top is a grid of 3/4" x 3"-4" plywood on edge, with the grid squares/rectangles approximately 8" - 12" square/rectangle per opening. I would add no bottom to the grid.
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[chopnhack]

Why no bottom to the grid C-man? Doesn't a lot of the boxes' strength come from the grid being tied together at all points?

[Stytooner]

You could drive a Bobcat on something built like that. I think plywood is better, but I am opposed to mdf for anything. I do agree with the cap of masonite. That stuff is slick and cheap. Very durable, especially where humidity isn't half the design equation.

[cabinetman]

Why no bottom to the grid C-man? Doesn't a lot of the boxes' strength come from the grid being tied together at all points?

I've built 4'x8' assembly tables like that, and walked all over them. By the time all the vertical edges of each opening are glued and fastened, it's one rigid structure. The layout for the grid can be all parallel slats going in one direction. The cross slats are offset enough to get screws in through the parallel ones. The 3/4" top can be glued and screwed, or just screwed (countersunk screws), as the cap would cover.
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[Black wallnut]

You could drive a Bobcat on something built like that. I think plywood is better, but I am opposed to mdf for anything. I do agree with the cap of masonite. That stuff is slick and cheap. Very durable, especially where humidity isn't half the design equation.

Which Lee, grid plus top or top and bottom with a grid?

[Stytooner]

Either way will be strong. Adding the bottom layer I think would just be personal preference. No doubt it would add strength, but would that extra be needed? You can always add the bottom layer afterward if you don't think it strong enough.

[cgallery]

Do you have to hit a specific size?

Cause if I was gonna do what you propose, I'd be inclined to find one of those interior doors with the honeycomb structure on the inside. They're quite strong, and if you capped it with hardboard on top and add a few blocks on the bottom (via glue) to attach legs, etc., you may save yourself some time and money.

I wish I had a shop with enough room for that size of an outfeed table, BTW. That is gonna be awesome.

[Black wallnut]

Do you have to hit a specific size?

Cause if I was gonna do what you propose, I'd be inclined to find one of those interior doors with the honeycomb structure on the inside. They're quite strong, and if you capped it with hardboard on top and add a few blocks on the bottom (via glue) to attach legs, etc., you may save yourself some time and money.

I wish I had a shop with enough room for that size of an outfeed table, BTW. That is gonna be awesome.

Since this will do double duty as a work bench the door idea would not work. At some point I'll mount a vise and drill dog holes. I've decided to follow the advice in this thread and only use a grid and top. I'll be posting pics when I'm done.

[cgallery]

Since this will do double duty as a work bench the door idea would not work. At some point I'll mount a vise and drill dog holes. I've decided to follow the advice in this thread and only use a grid and top. I'll be posting pics when I'm done.

Sorry, didn't catch the bench aspect.

I wonder if one could use one of those honeycomb doors and skin it both sides with 1/2 or 3/4" plywood. Or if the honeycomb material is insufficiently strong for that kind of weight.

Mind you, I'm not suggesting you do this.

Maybe some day when I have a larger shop I'll give it a shot.

[Black wallnut]

Update...... I have it mostly finished as of Sunday evening. No pics yet but man this is gonna be great! I still have one small part to make which is rather BT3 specific for an out feed table. I'll save the explaination as two pictures will be woth thousands of words; well maybe three or four, we'll see.