What type of glue do you use for melamine and mdf?
Glue for melamine?
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Yellow glue works good for MDF and particle board. Melamine joints will benefit by doing shallow dadoes and rabbets, like 1/8", just to get a glue joint, and in those you can use PVA or aliphatic resin glues.
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Titebond makes a white glue for that called, Titebond Melamine Glue. It dries sort of translucent-white. Sticks to the Melamine better that just yellow glue but not as well as an epoxy. However the Melamine surface itself can peel off of the particleboard so no glue on the Melamine surface is structurally sound. As mentioned a dado joint even only a 1/16" is much stronger and then you can just use your yellow glue if you like.
I found Titebond Melamine Glue at a Woodcraft store, one advantage even in the dado joint is the sort of white glue line blends with the surface.
Bill,Comment
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On the few occasions I have glued up Melamine I did the dado skim trick, and used Gorilla Glue. That stuff works great, but is a pain to handle sometimes...
For pretty much everything wood, MDF, particleboard etc... I have been using Titebond II with good results. I have Gorilla Glue and use it for exterior projects, or stuff that I know is going to get a LOT of abuse. LOML's step stool is glued up with gorilla glue.Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.Comment
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+1 for good ol' yellow glue. Hasn't failed me yet for melamine or MDF.Bill in Buena ParkComment
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Skinning the melamine with the shallow dado works good, and makes placement and clamping much easier than a gooey, loose joint sliding around while wet.Comment
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For those shallow rabbets/dadoes, I found from experience that a depth like 1/16" will work by getting exposed substrate, but it presents itself as easily damaged when dry fitting parts or during assembly. I tried that depth and found that a 1/8" depth works well in providing more shoulder for the rabbet/dado, and being deep enough to offer some protection of the melamine edge from getting chipped off. And, if the male part has any chipping, it may get hidden. Just my .02 cents.
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are you trying to glue the MDF to the smooth face of the melamine or talking about glueing to the exposed particleboard substrate on the edges or inside dadoes/rabbets?Jon
Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
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We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
techzibits.comComment
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For those shallow rabbets/dadoes, I found from experience that a depth like 1/16" will work by getting exposed substrate, but it presents itself as easily damaged when dry fitting parts or during assembly. I tried that depth and found that a 1/8" depth works well in providing more shoulder for the rabbet/dado, and being deep enough to offer some protection of the melamine edge from getting chipped off. And, if the male part has any chipping, it may get hidden. Just my .02 cents.
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I was thinking in terms of a butt joint where the dado is really only removing the melamine and not really making a joint. With light sanding of the dado and the edge of the mating piece a 1/16 dado saves you trying to make a dado that is 1/32 over 3/4. It is after all melamine and not fine cabinet work.
I know I shouldn't use junky technique when making junk but I save my energy and sanity for things that I take pride in.
Bill, over here on the other oceanComment
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Ah a lamination. I would suggest contact cement. But.... if you think you my at some time want to replace the Melamine top you could just screw it together from the bottom. The other way is to use 3 layers of MDF and cover it with a plastic laminate like Formica. The Formica would wear much better than the Melamine and if you are going to have to buy the Melamine the laminate in a small piece may be about the same price.
BillComment
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