Step stool

[chopnhack]

I need to make a step stool quickly. The prego wife can't put the small one in his crib much longer without a little vertical assistance

My question is about attaching a solid one piece wooden top to the lower assembly. I intend to have a front and back apron (horizontal grain) connecting to left and right (vertical grain) uprights. How should I attach the top to the base? Should I be concerned with wood movement? This will be made from red oak, all solid wood.

Thanks everyone.

[cabinetman]

If the top is a one piece panel, put a mounting cleat on the inside of the top of vertical ends and screw the top at the middle of both ends, from the inside. If the panel is a glue up of narrow pieces you probably wouldn't have any movement issues.
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[chopnhack]

Thanks C-man. The top is a one piece solid wood. About 9" wide. Are there any methods anyone can recommend that won't use screws? I was looking for traditional joinery if possible. Thanks again.

[cabinetman]

Without seeing the proposed design, maybe dowels, or a short spline.
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[jonathan55]

How about t.chisel's Shaker step stool from the Rough Cut podcast. This is an excellent project: http://www.tchisel.com/Video/Episode_153.html

[dbhost]

I built one for LOML's B-day a while back. She loves it so much, she took it off my hands before I could finish it, and I can't get it back!

If you want I will dig up the Sketchup files and post them so you can see how I did it...

[chopnhack]

This is what is sad about not being able to use the scanner at night - I could have drawn by hand in 5-10 minutes....what took me 2 hours in sketch up! LOL

This is the design I had in mind. I would like to not show any joinery if possible, but wasnt sure if m&t joinery would be correct with the top. The easiest joinery that doesnt show and is more traditional would be the best in this case. Thanks again guys.

[chopnhack]

It might look odd, I should explain, the stool/bench is 27" long by ~9"wide across the top, the stretchers are 1x3 being 3/4" at the thinnest area. The end supports, uprights are 7" tall with the overall height to be about 7 3/4" high. I hope that clears things up a bit.
DBHost, you need to teach me your Sketchup skills,

If anyone has any other design ideas for the stretchers please share them, I just threw what I could together. I can't quite get the hang of that program's arc tool.

[John Hunter]

Here is a link to one I built, you can see how it is attached http://www.binkyswoodworking.com/KidStool.htm

[Mr__Bill]

How about pocket screws?

[Pappy]

Thanks C-man. The top is a one piece solid wood. About 9" wide. Are there any methods anyone can recommend that won't use screws? I was looking for traditional joinery if possible. Thanks again.

Your design is essentially a scaled down table. Table tops are commonly attached with screws through the aprons or with something like figure 8 fasteners. With either of these methods, or using cleats like C'Man suggested, the screws don't show except from the bottom.

[cabinetman]

Here is a link to one I built, you can see how it is attached http://www.binkyswoodworking.com/KidStool.htm

That's a right nice stool you built there. Looks like the same type as Chop wants to make.
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[chopnhack]

Thanks everybody. John and Bill, I think I will take a little of what your both saying and try and get it done! I was hoping for a little more old world connection, but was concerned with the top breaking the joints. Thanks again! I will post as soon as I have something more than a few cut boards to show.

[cabinetman]

Here's an off the wall suggestion. You could hinge the lid and use a latch or some type of catch to keep it closed. At least you could use whatever space there is for storage, and not worry about fixing the top.
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[chopnhack]

I got some work done today, even without a jointer! I think I finally learned how to hand plane something (roughly) flat and square. And I have the blisters to prove it! Besides, the board was too wide to go through the jointer. I took a plank of 1x10 red oak 4' long, cut my top and legs. I then noticed that there was more cup in the board than there had been the night before when I picked out the piece at the BORG.
oh well. I planed the cup side up first, cutting across the grain! That made things go alot quicker and ended up being more accurate. I then flipped the piece and worked out the convex edges. Sanded all pieces down, routed roundover where appropriate. Made plywood template to cut out archways for two legs, sanded template to smooth out jigsaw marks. Roughed out archways with jig saw and finished with top bearing trim bit and template. Used my inflatable drum sander mounted in drill press again, that thing is handy!
Maybe next time I will try and get a better tool to do all this planing, a block plane just wasnt made for that purpose

Update over, question time:

Should I roundover the archway area? (the inside area of the legs) The outsides of the legs are rounded over, do you do the same or do you leave yours sharp? I know its just a matter of taste, but I was wondering what other people do. Sorry no photos, was so busy I forgot camera on desk!