Edgebanding router bit for frameless cabinets?

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  • Gator95
    Established Member
    • Jan 2008
    • 322
    • Atlanta GA
    • Ridgid 3660

    #1

    Edgebanding router bit for frameless cabinets?

    Any reason why using one of these edgebanding sets wouldn't work as well as edgebanding tape for frameless cabinets made out of 3/4 ply?

    http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...band_ogee.html
  • Tom Miller
    Veteran Member
    • Mar 2003
    • 2507
    • Twin Cities, MN
    • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

    #2
    I've never used that type of bit, but I do always use ~1/2" to 1" wide stock to edge plywood for shelves. If I'm worried about alignment, I might use biscuits.

    I like the flush, flat joint for two reasons: 1) doesn't take special bits, and 2) an angled cut like you get with these bits seems like it makes the edge more prone to damage.

    Regards,
    Tom

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    • LarryG
      The Full Monte
      • May 2004
      • 6693
      • Off The Back
      • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

      #3
      Basically +1 on Tom's answer, except that I've done edging as thin as 1/4".

      With any type of banding method you're unlikely to get the banding and the plywood perfectly flush with each other, requiring some trimming after the glue-up. Given that, I don't see that special bits like these accomplish a whole lot. They do increase the glued surface somewhat but I've never found that provided by the square edge of the plywood to be inadequate.
      Larry

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      • dbhost
        Slow and steady
        • Apr 2008
        • 9453
        • League City, Texas
        • Ryobi BT3100

        #4
        I have, and have used the 7733, even though I bought it from a friend, and not MLCS directly. He bought it, used it for one project, and "sold" it to me for a case of Budweiser that I helped him drink... Anyway... Just make sure your edging stock is slightly larger than your ply, and flush trim it down to size...

        You could also use biscuits to get the same effect.

        Don't even consider using this set on thinner stock like 1/2"... Just not enough material to work with...
        Please like and subscribe to my YouTube channel. Please check out and subscribe to my Workshop Blog.

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        • poolhound
          Veteran Member
          • Mar 2006
          • 3196
          • Phoenix, AZ
          • BT3100

          #5
          Ditto the OPs, I dont really see the benefit. If you feel the need for something other than a flush joint you can always slot and spline or slot one side and cut a tongue in the other with a rabbetting bit. As one of these bit sets would require 2 bit changes anyway it would be the same amount of work.
          Jon

          Phoenix AZ - It's a dry heat
          ________________________________

          We all make mistakes and I should know I've made enough of them
          techzibits.com

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          • cabinetman
            Gone but not Forgotten RIP
            • Jun 2006
            • 15216
            • So. Florida
            • Delta

            #6
            Doing that edge banding machining is an unnecessary procedure. A flat edge glue up is more than substantial. To do that machining requires two bits, and all the edges of the leading cabinet edges have to be done before assembly. The probability of damage to a machined edge, or a slight glitch will keep the parts from mating.

            I've done that edge and find no difference in strength to a flat glue up. An alternative to that procedure is just run a 1/8" saw kerf in the mating edges and insert a spline.

            For a glue up width I may cut the solid stock to 13/16". The thinnest I would glue is 5/16", which would be derived from 3/4" split with an 1/8" sawcut.
            .

            Comment

            • Gator95
              Established Member
              • Jan 2008
              • 322
              • Atlanta GA
              • Ridgid 3660

              #7
              Thanks for the replies. Sounds like the bits are unnecessary and just gluing a piece of hardwood to the edge works just as well.

              Comment

              • pacwind3
                Established Member
                • Nov 2006
                • 257
                • Vancouver, WA
                • Bosch 4100

                #8
                I worked in a production shop for 1-1/2 years. They had flat edge banding that was both 5/16" and 3/8" thick. Forgot the reason between the two, something to do with final dimemsions on shelves, but flat glue surface was always enough.

                Comment

                • drumpriest
                  Veteran Member
                  • Feb 2004
                  • 3338
                  • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
                  • Powermatic PM 2000

                  #9
                  I'm a fan of making your own banding, just because I have the tools and a little thicker as pacwind3 was mentioning makes for a sturdier edge of your shelf. I usually rip some stock on the band saw that is 13/16" thick, then drum sand, and apply so that there's a bit of it above and below, then I have the genuine pleasure of taking my block plane and planing it flush. I don't know why but I've found that procedure fun and relaxing, even though it's fairly slow.

                  Now if you are really trying to stiffen up your shelf, that's a slightly different story. I have done the biscuit thing, and it's ok, but if your shelf is a bit warped and you wanna help straighten it a little with a nice straight piece of stock, a tongue and groove will work great, and you can cut it on the TS.
                  Keith Z. Leonard
                  Go Steelers!

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