Proper Blade For Cutting MDF / Plywood

[brubakes]

What blade would you recommending when cutting MDF or Plywood. Any thickness. I always seem to splinter the ends.

[Pappy]

I am going to answer on the assumtion that you are cutting on a TS.

A 60 or 80 tooth thin kerf blade will give you clean cuts. To avoid splintering or tearing of the ends of the cut, or the veneer, use a zero clearance throat plate for the bottom of the cut and run a strip of blue painters tape along the cut line on the ends and top.

[brubakes]

I am going to answer on the assumtion that you are cutting on a TS.

A 60 or 80 tooth thin kerf blade will give you clean cuts. To avoid splintering or tearing of the ends of the cut, or the veneer, use a zero clearance throat plate for the bottom of the cut and run a strip of blue painters tape along the cut line on the ends and top.

Yes, I did mean on a table saw. Thank you!

[dbhost]

I have been using a Freud Diablo 40T general purpose blade for that, and I get no tearout. Just make sure you use a zero clearance throat plate and you should be fine... A dull or dirty blade will tear out as well...

[poolhound]

As the OPs have said a ZCTP will help. Depending on how big the pieces are you intend to cut, a panel sled will help with cuts across the grain as the the bottom (where tear out is usually worse) is inherently supported by the edge of the sled.

[drumpriest]

MDF, whatever junk blade I have around, plywood, high tooth blade is the common thinking, I usually just use my wwII. A nice sharp blade does the trick. I also have a ZCTP though, and cross cutting I do with my sled, so it's also zero clearance.

[Knottscott]

The cleanest cutting grind for ply and melamine is a Hi-ATB combined with a fairly high tooth count. Infinity's 010-060 and 010-080, Freud's LU79R010 (TK) and LU80R010, Forrest's Duraline, or CMT's 255.080.10 are all excellent examples. Infinity's 10% Winter Sale puts the 010-060 at ~ $63.

You can also reduce tearout by pre-scoring the cut line, and putting painter's tape on the cut prior to cutting. Using a ZCI helps a lot too.

[pelligrini]

For MDF I generally won't use my good WWII. I usually end up putting my stock blade on for it. MDF may cut easily, but it will also dull a blade quicker than most woods. Sometimes I might use a better blade for MDF core melamine if it needs to be a nice finish cut.

[brubakes]

Thank you all for the information. I have never used anything but the OEM throat plate which as you know is not near zero clearance. To be honest I think my blade I've been using has seen its better days. Might be time to spring for a new one.

[Armini]

Thank you all for the information. I have never used anything but the OEM throat plate which as you know is not near zero clearance. To be honest I think my blade I've been using has seen its better days. Might be time to spring for a new one.

Try the ZCTP first - you will be shocked. Made a bigger difference than a resharpening.

[SARGE..g-47]

Ditto Pappy on the painters tape and Knotscott on scoring with a razor blade knife first. By scoring with a razon knife and straight-edge you are essentionally cutting the veneer surface on the ply and the painters tape will avoid lift-out. It both sides will show... do it on both sides.

I use a 40 T on ply and a 24 T on MDF. MDF will cut well on about any blade but it dulls on quickly so Scotts idea of using a junk one it good. Also wear a dust mask as MDF dust is nasty.... nasty I tell you.