glueing up bevelled edges

[gimpy]

Does anyone have ideas for jigs and clamps (homemade, if possible) for gluing up 45* bevelled edges? I've already cut out and will soon be gluing up a box with all but the front baffle, having 45* bevelled edges.

I've done a lot of searching but haven't found exactly what I need. I have a couple of ideas, but nothing concrete in mind, yet. I've made up some corner clamps using 2X4, but that isn't exactly working for me. I'm thinking of some "L" type jigs in conjunction w/the corner clamps?

Does anyone have any better/different suggestions? I'm not very good, so please be detailed if you can give explanations/examples.

Hopefully, I can come up with something for this weekend?

Thx, for any help, Frank

[chopnhack]

Frank, can you elaborate a little more on what exactly you are trying to do. I understand the work pieces have 45 deg bevelled edges, and a few jigs come to mind, but I am sure you would have seen them already. Flesh out what your doing a little more. Hand draw something and scan it into the computer or a picture of what your working with perhaps. My first thought BTW was cutting out a large 45 degree angle out of some plywood and using that as a clamping "corner" block.

[JR]

I used a strap clamp on the humidor I built for Christmas. Worked like a champ.

JR

[cabinetman]

Does anyone have ideas for jigs and clamps (homemade, if possible) for gluing up 45* bevelled edges? I've already cut out and will soon be gluing up a box with all but the front baffle, having 45* bevelled edges.

I've done a lot of searching but haven't found exactly what I need. I have a couple of ideas, but nothing concrete in mind, yet. I've made up some corner clamps using 2X4, but that isn't exactly working for me. I'm thinking of some "L" type jigs in conjunction w/the corner clamps?

Does anyone have any better/different suggestions? I'm not very good, so please be detailed if you can give explanations/examples.

Hopefully, I can come up with something for this weekend?

Thx, for any help, Frank

If I understand your project, you could cut the bevel in a section of wood only slightly wider than the edge, so the groove cut fits the bevel. It's flat on the outboard side to take a clamp.

With prefab edges that have a bevel they may come with a spline that will fit a groove cut on a panel or countertop edge. For a flat to flat glue up, making a fitted jig works pretty good.
.

[SARGE..g-47]

The baffle is throwing me off gimpy but.... are you simply trying to glue up 4 sides of a small box at once? If so.. what are the approximate demensions once it were glued?

Won't say more until I am clear. But if that is the case there is a simple fix to a somewhat complicated problem.

Regards...

[gimpy]

I may have already mentioned this a while back, but I am making a rectangular speaker box. The front baffle will have roundovers using 3/4 inch oak molding. All of the rest of the corners/edges are bevelled 45*. I had to do it this way because I bought a 4 X 8 sheet of "pre-veneered" oak 3/4 inch mdf. I did some damage to it in transport/unloading so did not try to return it. But anyway, doing it this way, roundovers for the front baffle to match my other speakers, and bevelling all of the other edges so oak veneer is shown on all sides (no mdf showing).

Anyway, I'm having a hard time dry fitting the pieces to see how they look. The bevelled edges keep sliding around and won't stay matched up when using the corner clamps I made (because I drilled a round hole in the center for glue dispersal). Thus, I was thinking about possibly making an "L" shaped jig to hold the sides on their sides, instead of the "V" cut out of the corner clamp that holds it on corner (it won't let me lay it down flat like it is now).

Does this make sense? Sorry, cabinetman, I don't have the necessary accesories/knowledge to post pictures.

Thx, Frank

[LCHIEN]

This clamp:

http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-WS-3-An...0859992&sr=1-9

[gimpy]

Sorry, Sarge, for being so confusing, but, that is exactly what I am trying to do.

The dimensions are (not here in front of me) something like: 7 1/2 inches tall X 12 1/2 inches deep X 21 1/2 inches wide.

Thx, Frank

[gimpy]

Loring, something like that might be what i need, but, trying to do with something that I can make, if possible. I already have over $300 into this project, just with all the parts/mdf (not completely thru spending, yet). Don't think I could justify spending more money right now on those clamps with the wife, especially just post-Christmas :>).

Frank

[drillman88]

Would something like this work?I have used speed squares at times on small things.

http://books.google.com/books?id=gj0...m=12&ct=result

[chopnhack]

ok, i reread your initial post and further clarifications. The bevelled edges will slide around and even more so with glue on them. C-man mentioned the spline technique, cutting a groove on both ends if you have already bevelled your pieces and inserting a spline to register the parts while clamping. If that is too complicated, as it is beyond my ability at the moment as well - 90 degree L shaped blocks can be constructed and used as clamping surfaces. You can also use some glue blocks on the inside, screw one side down with some short screws, this can help brace the inside. I hope this helps some, maybe the other more experience woodworkers can help more. Good luck

[Uncle Cracker]

I have a couple of the Bessey clamps mentioned above, and they work great, but i really scored when HF had these clamps on sale for $5 each. I bought 8 of them, and have glued up several boxes with mitered corners, using 2 on each corner. Perfect! And I didn't break the bank...

[Richard in Smithville]

How about something along this line. Is that what you were thinking about?
(Sorry if someone posted this idea already)

[gimpy]

Thx, for the suggestions, guys. Sorry to not have answered for a bit (BIL called and was visiting w/him for a bit). Some of those clamps look good, but, also expensive and I'm not real close to a HF (coupla hours).

c n h, your thoughts sound interesting, might see if I can do something like that. The spline might be doable, will have to check to see if I have a router bit I could use. Would I have to worry about the spline (if used, most probably be pine or hardboard or something cheap) expanding and splitting the mdf? Drillman, that right angle clamp looks good, but, I think way too big for my project. Of course, might could play w/the dimensions, though.

I still have to buy the molding and glue it to the front baffle before I rout the woofer/tweeter holes. Hopefully can do some of it this weekend-between the ballgames.

Frank

[SARGE..g-47]

In this case.. Choppenhack and Richard have both given you probably the best method with the L braces. And if the inside won't be seen.. you could use a brace on each corner screwed in the MDF. But.. if you do that be sure to drill pilot holes and don't penetrate all the way through in advance.

If you simply want to see what the glue up will look like I am going to give you a method I would have suggested if you were making a small box. This is something I learned from Doug Stowe who makes a ton of small boxs and it is about as simple as it gets. It might even work with that larger size and you could dry run just to see. But it works using 4 mitered corners and if I understand you the front baffle is not mitered.

Lay the mitered sides down in the order they will appear in the square after the miters are cut with the end tips of the miter touching to form a continuous line. Place the insides down to start. Then use clear 3" packaging tape to cover the end tips. In other words.. tape the the continous edges to the next edge where all 4 meet. Just overlap the cut with the tape runnig up and down.

Turn it over to the outside faces are down. You have created a live hinge with the four sides. In a small box you simply apply glue.. spread evenly and then fold the 4 taped sides together. Then apply another strip of tape all the way around. The clear tape will allow you to see through it to idenify gap.

Any gap.. apply additional strips of tape around the box until the gap is taken up. At that point just let it dry. Now.. you can at least find out how your miters align doing this even if you are using a butt joint on the baffle on the front and L braces.

The tape is a god-send on small boxes with all corners mitered. I have the corner clamps from Bessey but on a small carcass this works better IMO.

Hope that helps but with the weigh of MDF and the front not being a miter to give you a continous wrap up... the L braces may be the ticket but I would experiment until you discover what seem comfortable to you before you ever lay any glue. And once you do find "your" method. Rehearse several times and make sure all things you need are at your convenience once you start the actual live run.

But again.. duct tape might just do the trick to get the 3 sides folded together to get L braces clamped and the baffle in place. Dry run won't hurt and might just be the best ticket.

Good luck...