sanding without removing detail

[poolhound]

I have come across something new for me and am puzzled as to the solution.

I salvaged a nice piece of stock from a large chunk of old fire wood and its perfect to make a small box. One edge has a really cool texture that was just below the bark and I want to incorporate into the design.

It is wavy with lots of fine contour lines. The question is how to approach smoothing it without ending up removing the texture itself?

Is there a technique to do this or is the answer to simply leave it alone an just apply finish directly.

I was also considering using a wire brush but this could easily affect the texture also.

I am scratching my head - help please

[LCHIEN]

I'm kind of reading you want the grain structure to pop out.
This happens in weathered wood and driftwood. I imagine you can get the same effect by using sandblasting. Some parts of the grain are soft and some are hard, alternating through the annual growth ring. Sandblasting (or other weathering effect) will remove the softer parts and leave the harder parts proud, giving the grain texture you may desire.

[drillman88]

Im not sure if I understand you completely but I have had good luck cleaning up edge profiles with maroon scotchbrite pads and a light touch.It will remove some fuzz and light scratches without removing too much .It also molds to contours very well.

[Tom Slick]

I think we need pictures, my mental camera is on the fritz right now.

[poolhound]

I think we need pictures, my mental camera is on the fritz right now.

I am sure picture will help you get the idea. I will grab the camera later today and take some shots so you can see what I am dealing with.

[leehljp]

If you want it pristine, you need to start with two or three layers of very thin finish or sealer and then build up from there. Bowl turners do this often, as well as box makers.

The real problem is figuring out how you want to cut, frame or build that part so that it is showcased. Once you do that, then use a moderately stiff nylon brush to clean the surface, but don't put too much pressure so that it scratches. Then build up the two or three layers of sealer to prevent color changes.

One thought, immediately when cutting it to shape, soak and seal with clear sealant so that it is less likely to warp or shrink. The wood is more than likely still green/wet.

[drumpriest]

David Marks did talk about finishing textured surfaces, as I recall he used a scotch bright pad, as drillman says, and then as Lee suggests, lots of layers of finish built up. If the details are fine enough, and you use a somewhat self leveling finish (lacquer?) you can build up enough layers that you can buff the finish to smooth it out without getting rid of the wood detail.

[poolhound]

OK here are some pics and you will see what I mean. SOme of the detail is very fine as you will see in the blow up. I think a combination of the scotch bright pads and a nylon brush should work. As this is the only piece I have I dont have anything to experiment on.

As you can probably tell this is pretty close to the finished size (its 5" wide)and I was intending to make a simple bandsaw box with the textured area being the front of the lid.

[leehljp]

I don't know what others would do, but I would look at finishing oils such as pure tung oil or Boiled Linseed Oil. Not a poly, but oils and waxes. It will preserve it in a natural state without covering it under a top heavy finish. TO and BLO are much much slower in drying / curing and it will take patience, but over a month of working on it little by little, you will have a well preserved and protected natural look.