Help! Wood stain for interior trim! I have questions...

[DaveS]

I have to finish about 50 bazillion linear feet of red oak trim.

Given the stink of the oil stain, I am looking for some advice.

(1) I have an attached garage, and it is about 45 in there - is that warm enough for staining? The Minwax oil stain products make no mention of temperature in the directions, or in online literature.

(2) has anyone used the water based stains? Are they comparable to the oil stains? And does it have low enough odor that I could do it in my basement and not smell the place up?

(3) has anyone used the "one step" finish products, such as the PolyShades from Minwax?

Thanks in advance....

[SARGE..g-47]

I have to finish about 50 bazillion linear feet of red oak trim.

Given the stink of the oil stain, I am looking for some advice.

(1) I have an attached garage, and it is about 45 in there - is that warm enough for staining? The Minwax oil stain products make no mention of temperature in the directions, or in online literature.

(2) has anyone used the water based stains? Are they comparable to the oil stains? And does it have low enough odor that I could do it in my basement and not smell the place up?

(3) has anyone used the "one step" finish products, such as the PolyShades from Minwax?

Thanks in advance....

(1) You shouldn't have a problem with the 45* degrees as far as application but... it will take longer for the oil to evarporate and you can take the trim inside.

(2) No...

(3) Yes... years ago and unless they have changed the way they make it... I would avoid it like the plaque. It blotches and just doesn't go on evenly as they say it will. IMO a waste of money.. does not save time as I spent 4 times longer trying to correct it than it takes to do it using the tried and true method.

I would personally use gel stain which goes on more evenly than liquid oil stain which I simply don't use anymore. Easier to apply.. spread more even as it stays on the surface (liquid oil will penetrate deeper into pores and that often relates to a form of blotch) for a more even look. A little more expensive probably (? as I don't purchase oil and haven't in 7 years) but worth more IMO.

BTW... yoi didn't mention if you were going to add protective finish on the trim after staining. If you are the cold will affect the way some finishes such as poly goes on. Shellac it won't. So... if using poly over the stain it might be a good option to await spring and warmer weather if at all an option. And... if you are any in your family are sensitive to smell (aren't all women?..) don't use the warmer basement and especially if you heating system is down there. Trust me on that one as I would love to have my money back from 2 nights of Holiday Inn for the sensitive one's stay. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Good luck...

[dielectric]

I second the verdict on the Polyshades, I used it on a small project as an experiment, and I have to keep it in a dark corner so I don't see the uneven finish. Some blotching, but really the sheen is what bothers me. It just isn't consistent over the surface, so some parts have a better sheen than others.

[cabinetman]

I prefer to use an oil base stain rather than water base stain, or gel stains. Waterbased stains will raise the grain on Red Oak. The oil base stain will dry more slowly in colder temps, but will flash off fairly quick. For an even faster dry in colder temps use an NGR (Non-Grain Raising) stain, which is really a methanol (alcohol) based dye.

I don't use one-step stuff. Even the Minwax that the label says "stains and seals" is a bunch of horse puckey. It may stain, but it sure doesn't seal.
.

[dbhost]

I have to finish about 50 bazillion linear feet of red oak trim.

Given the stink of the oil stain, I am looking for some advice.

(1) I have an attached garage, and it is about 45 in there - is that warm enough for staining? The Minwax oil stain products make no mention of temperature in the directions, or in online literature.

(2) has anyone used the water based stains? Are they comparable to the oil stains? And does it have low enough odor that I could do it in my basement and not smell the place up?

(3) has anyone used the "one step" finish products, such as the PolyShades from Minwax?

Thanks in advance....

#1. As long as it is above freezing the entire time that the stain and poly cures, you are fine... However, the lower the temp, the longer it will take. I would put a small oil filled radiator out there and try to keep the shop above 65 deg F.

#2. Yes, Bad results, poor penetration, you might have better luck than I did...

#3. Same as #2. Very splotchy. Not worth the time saving...

[mschrank]

Over the last year, I've finished about 50 bazillion feet of red alder trim. I used General Finishes Water Based Wood Stains (click here, scroll down).

As CMan said, it will raise the grain. I got around it by wiping the wood down with a damp rag to raise the grain, then lightly sanding (and I mean lightly) with 220 to knock it down before staining. It adds another step, but the benefits of the water based outweighed it for me.

I used their Natural as a first coat. It doesn't change the color, but prevents the next "color" coat from blotching.

This stain is kinda thick, but not gel-like. It goes on easy and odor free, dries quick, and I was very happy with the result.

Final coat was a water-based "laquer" (Resisthane) sprayed with the cheapy Rocker/HF HVLP.

[DaveS]

just an update...

It was 68 degrees today here in Pittsburgh.

I have never stained so much in one day in my life.

My driveway looked like it had been paneled.

It is a good thing I got to do this outside, as I was getting a bit loopy from the fumes standing outside - I can't imagine what it would have been like in a closed up garage.

[chopnhack]

+1 with Mike, I recently did a bunch of red oak floor boards for my dad with General Finishes water based vintage cherry. The trick in my case was sanding to 220 before applying the finish and wiping the finish on lightly. I dont know if the sanding helped to close off the pores slightly or if just wiping the stain lightly helped, but there wasnt much noticeable blotching and the stain was not too dark. I will agree again with Mike in that a wash coat before staining has always seemed to help me manage the penetration of stains. Take a sample board and play with some variables before you begin, remember to mark what you do on the board. Good luck!