table saw for hollowing seat bottoms?

[jp]

I have to carve out/hollow out some chair seats. I really don't want to do the rough work with hand tools. I was thinking about using the same basic idea as cutting coves (i.e., running stock across blade at an an angle to carve a curve based on the hieght of the blade and the angle of attack) except the angle would be perpindicular to the blade and you'd make a series of cuts to achieve the shape you want.

Has anyone attempted this or heard of anyone doing it?

[b1bill]

Magazine article

I think I saw an article in Wood Magazine on doing that with a table saw. Try their website, they have a search engine for it too.

[JR]

I don't have any experience with this yet, but I am working on a chair prototype now. Maloof makes cuts something like those shown below.



He makes the cuts on the bandsaw before glueup, using his unique freehand methodology. He cuts the center piece first, making the buttal area deeper than the legal area. Then he marks the side pieces using the center piece as a template, cutting them once again using his freehand technique to get close to final shape. Glueup comes next. Then he uses a big sander to bring it final shape.

HTH,
JR

[steve-norrell]

He makes the cuts on the bandsaw before glueup, using his unique freehand methodology. He cuts the center piece first, making the buttal area deeper than the legal area. Then he marks the side pieces using the center piece as a template, cutting them once again using his freehand technique to get close to final shape. Glueup comes next. Then he uses a big sander to bring it final shape.

HTH,
JR

Ouch! I bet that would smart if the glue joints became loose over time. Double Ouch!

Wouldn't it be better for the seat to have a flat bottom (under side) so it could be adequately supported with cross pieces? IMO, the business side of the seat should be hollowed out.

Regards, Steve

[cabinetman]

I've tried doing seats on the table saw and the set up and graduated depth cuts required a lot of setup. It's a blind procedure, as you can't see what's going on. I prefer to use a convex spokeshave, or a two handed inshave, or a one handed inshave.

Hand shaping goes fairly fast and offers more control than with a table saw or a router.
.

[messmaker]

I read an article about doing it with a Skilsaw. It looked scary to me.

[Uncle Cracker]

Just sit on your jointer a couple of times, and you'll be able to use a flat chair...

[JR]

Ouch! I bet that would smart if the glue joints became loose over time. Double Ouch!

Wouldn't it be better for the seat to have a flat bottom (under side) so it could be adequately supported with cross pieces? IMO, the business side of the seat should be hollowed out.

Well, yeah, if the glue joints fail you're in a world of hurt.

They're doweled and glued, though, so they're not supposed to fail. They are "pre-formed" in order to limit the amount of hollowing required on the business side.

JR

[poolhound]

You can achive this with a router jig that is similar to a surfacing platform jig but with the rails shaped to the profile you want to dish out of the chair.

[herb fellows]

If you have an angle grinder handy, you can hog out a lot of wood with a sandpaper disc attached to it, to minimize the hand work somewhat. Probably best to do this outside, the sawdust goes flyin'!
You do have to be careful though, it's real tough to put wood back if you take off too much:-)

[just started]

David Marks uses a 4" angle grinder with a cutting wheel of some sort to hollow out or sculpt all kinds of stuff.

[WayneJ]

There is a disc made for the angle grinder called "Lancelot' Its like a disc with a chain saw wrapped around it I think its the one used by David Marks I know HF carries them.
Wayne

[tribalwind]

David Marks uses a 4" angle grinder with a cutting wheel of some sort to hollow out or sculpt all kinds of stuff.

it's an arbortec ,i have the mini wheel, works great except the little plasticy rubber belt ont eh belt-drive breaks easy and they want $15 for a replacement! the belt is size of a rubber band,about as durable
im going to look at McMaster-carr to see if i can find a suitable alternative,or maye grainger.

it does work great for this application though, i did a rustic chair like that..

Buttal area, LOL. is that actually the technical term?

[gary]

I used an 4" angle grinder with a sanding disc on it with 24 grit. Wear a dust respirator *cough* *cough* It really flies everywhere.

[shoottx]

Just sit on your jointer a couple of times, and you'll be able to use a flat chair...

Now you owe me a new keyboard. Ice soaked all over it!