Tie-down a shed?

[stormdog74]

I will be building a shed (after I fix the fence mentioned in my other post) and was wondering if I should use a tie-down kit. I am in Sacramento, CA in a very wide open space, but I am not sure when a tie-down kit is called for. Last winter we had 70 mph winds (although that is rare), which took down large parts of my fence, but I don't know how, or even if, it would affect a shed.

The shed I am building is basically 10' x 10' x 10'

What is the feeling here?

Here is essentially what I will be using for the floor:

http://www.shedfloors.com/howto.html

[cabinetman]

All I can say is it can't hurt, because you never know what'll come by. I thought you read my thread about my missing shed and got you thinkin', but you didn't reply to it. Check out what happened to me.
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[stormdog74]

All I can say is it can't hurt, because you never know what'll come by. I thought you read my thread about my missing shed and got you thinkin', but you didn't reply to it. Check out what happened to me.
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No, I didn't see that post. I just tend to do a lot of research and it seems that they pitch anchor kits to certain areas, but do not specify which area in particular - one site showed a wind map, but said nothing else.

We, of course, do not get hurricanes or tornados (well, occasionally you hear of a small one out in the middle of nowhere, so I suppose it is possible), so I would prefer not to do it if I don't need to. But I would if it was thought even somewhat important. Built it as strong as you need but not more (stealing from Einstein's quote: "Make everything as simple as possible, but not simpler").

Thanks for the reply.

[cabinetman]

I think I have in "My Documents" my shed floor layout which included a simple tie down system. As you saw in the pictures, my floor didn't go anywhere. I'll do a search if I can find it and post it for you.
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[cabinetman]

I did a foundation layout, and I might not have saved it. Anyway it's pretty simple.

The foundation for the floor can be a minimum of PT 2 x 6's but I prefer 2 x 8's on edge forming the 10' x 10' size, and at each inside corner, sink a PT 4 x 4 into 2' of concrete, leaving the height to be level with the top edge of the 2 x 8's. From the outside of the 2 x 8's lag bolt through the 2x8 into the 4x4 from two directions. As the rest of the floor joists are laid out, do the same at 2' intervals at intersections. If you're not in a high wind area, you could go 30" in between 4x4's. Then I used 3/4" CDX plywood on top for the floor.
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[stormdog74]

Thanks for the help and for taking the time to look up the information, but I am using a different plan for the foundation - I am using the following system:

http://www.shedfloors.com/howto.html

I need to allow water to flow under it at times (there really is not an easy way around this that I see).

They have an anchor system (see bottom of page of the link), but I wasn't sure if it was necessary for this part of the country. On this page they show a link to winds in certain areas, which got me wondering where it was necessary - they don't however say:

http://www.shedfloors.com/anchoring.html

[dbhost]

The tie down setup that is required down here to prevent your shed from becoming a projectile, is basically a corkscrew of sorts that screws into the ground, connected via aircraft type cable to a turnbuckle, and in turn tied off to the joist brackets. (Simpson Strong ties usually). This pretty much ties the rafters to the walls to the floor joists to the ground... WIsh I could explain it better, but my wife is asking me a ton of questions now...

[Stytooner]

I always tie it down or build it on concrete footings and slab. I helped with cleanup after Andrew in Miami and sheds were everywhere in pieces. The ones that made it through somewhat were tied down and had hurricane strapping in the walls or built on slabs.
Now that wasn't a guarantee that it would survive, but without them, it was pretty much guaranteed they wouldn't.

I used three methods of anchors. The old corkscrew style with either strapping or cables or I pour concrete anchors with rebar hooks and use cables and turnbuckles. Lastly I pour concrete around treated posts with short pieces of rebar going through the bottom in two directions. Not necessary, but does help and won't ever let the post slip out of the concrete.
I always pour in gravels first, so the holes are deeper than they have to be.

All basically pretty simple and have withstood 120 MPH winds. Any higher though and all bets are off.

[stormdog74]

Thanks for the advise, guys - greatly appreciated. Since we don't get 120 mph winds here, I think your ideas sound more than sufficient and will work well.