I'm working on a project that needs some white wood, If I was made outta money I'd get holly, but thats not the case. I was thinking of using some ash.
Anyone have any ideas?
Agree with Russianwolf on maple as very clear but depends on the project. If on a budget soft maple is cheaper. If you are really on a budget and can get away with a very soft-wood.. basswood is very clear also. But... you have to be extremely careful of splinter and blow-out when working it as it is really soft.
I just discoved that as I'm using it for drawer sides as I normally use poplar. But.. with patience and precaution it's working fine. It depends a lot on your project whether you need hard-soft or - open-closed grain IMO.
Depending on your budget, where you buy your wood would have a bearing on what wood will work. Birch would be another choice. If grain isn't a problem, Poplar would likely cost less than Maple or Birch. There are some Pines that may also work into your decision.
If grain is part of the criteria, you could get creative and use a "graining tool" and create whatever grain pattern you want.
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My first thought was maple. Poplar could work if you select carefully, but much of what I see has a lot og green and brown in it. I used aspen once, and I found that it was very prove to cupping and warping, so I can't really reccommend using it. Other than that, I can't really think of any other common light woods.
I again will agree with Russianwolf that there is nothing "wrong" with it Jack. It does depend on the project. If a lot of staining is involved the ash would probably be a better choice IMO as it will take stain more evenly than maple. I get soft maple cheap in Atlanta and would probably use it depending on his real need which wasn't stated.
But.. I personally love ash and hickory being from the south but would confine it to more of mission style.. etc.. with it's grain and major hardness. If he's staining everything it's going to get lip-sticked anyway. But if he intends to stay clear the soft maple has a much less noticeable and tighter grain than the ash.
Again as Russianwold stated.. it just depends as we know little about the true application intended so... we are basically speculating with general information.
Ash is probably the lightest coarse grain wood, at least that I can think of. If you like the coarse grain and it is light enough for you, nothing wrong with it. I like oak and it is at least as coarse grained.
Cherry sapwood is as light as maple but it typically is sold at cherry prices - more than maple. A lot more than poplar.
I'm working on a project that needs some white wood, If I was made outta money I'd get holly, but thats not the case. I was thinking of using some ash. Anyone have any ideas?
I agree with the maple suggestions, too. Maple is one of my favs.
Originally posted by jackellis
What's the problem with Ash? I'm asking because I have a bunch of it and would like to know what it is and is not good for.
I think ash has the sports market cornered -- with baseball bats, hockey sticks, paddles, etc. Other than that I hear it machines and bends pretty well... but I've never had enough to make anything significant out of it.
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The project I'm working on is an inlayed Boy Scout Eagle badge.There are 2 rings of white and 1 red one surrounding the eagle on a red-white-blue field'
For the red I was thinking bloodwood and the blue I was thinking purpleheart.
I'm trying to stay away from altering the natural color of the wood.
Thanks to all for the advise.
Looks like I might be taking a closer look at maple.
Thanks again
I think ash is a nice wood to work with. I see it as yellow oak. It is pretty light colored at least what I have seen and used.
Here are some pics showing a few different wood for contrast.
This first picture is white oak, ash and walnut. The ash is the lightest color. This is finished with Formby's gloss with about 30% added poly. Probably 8 coats I think.
This next one is mostly all maple, but the darker is curly flamed maple.
The outside trim is walnut.
It does really depend on what the material you have looks like. Even the same species can vary a pretty good bit. For chess boards, I am looking for specific characteristics when I buy the material. I don't buy it sight unseen.
I think ash is a nice wood to work with. I see it as yellow oak. It is pretty light colored at least what I have seen and used.
Here are some pics showing a few different wood for contrast.
This first picture is white oak, ash and walnut. The ash is the lightest color. This is finished with Formby's gloss with about 30% added poly. Probably 8 coats I think.
This next one is mostly all maple, but the darker is curly flamed maple.
The outside trim is walnut.
It does really depend on what the material you have looks like. Even the same species can vary a pretty good bit. For chess boards, I am looking for specific characteristics when I buy the material. I don't buy it sight unseen.
May I ask what finish you used in the curly and standard maple, Lee? Looks really good. And did you use any oil... etc. before the finish which may be nothing but oil itself?
BTW... I recieved the piece of metal plate you sent me. Excellent machining as I expected it would be. And.... what is the small hoke bottom right facing the plate behind the U slot? I'm not sure what it's intended for but I drilled larger and inserted a stainless steel pin with ring pull like on a hand grenade. To lift the plate from the slot requires pulling the pin.
It all came out superb as your slots at the bottom was a perfect mate to my Uni-saw. I drilled the top to accept my own gaurd and shield. Again supreme machine work on your part.
Thanks Sarge.
I used the same finish on both. Just wiped on multiple coats of the Formby's poly mix.
Light sand between each.
Can you send me a picture of the little pull ring thing you mention?
The small hole that was there was simply for powder coating. It has to hang in an oven.
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