Finishing Western Cedar

[mcbiz1234]

Greetings...

I just finished building a picnic table and two benches, based on plans from Popular Mechanics, using Western Cedar. This was great fun.

Now I need to finish it (or not). I've asked my father and a few folks I know, and I've gotten a variety of responses -- ALL different. There's been recommendations to use oil, deck stain, spar varnish, and Cetol.

I would like to keep the original color.

Thoughts and recommendations? Thanks much!

mtc

[downtheroad]

How about Penofin Oil. Easier to maintain and renew. Great product.
See their site:
http://www.penofin.com/index.shtml

[mcbiz1234]

Thanks Tony.

Anyone know anything about just letting it be as is? I.e. does western cedar hold up enough to not even bother with "finishing"?

A different but related question: the wood I used is STK (small tight knots). Some of the knots are loose and some have splits/openings. Any recommendations on "filling" or somehow treating them? I figured I could knock out the loose ones and then put them back with some glue.

[poolhound]

Thanks Tony.

Anyone know anything about just letting it be as is? I.e. does western cedar hold up enough to not even bother with "finishing"?

I have built some garden furniture with aromatic cedar. Leaving it natural is an option but I added 3 or 4 coats of a poly/oil mix as it adds some protection and brings out the color. IMHO, while such finishes are less "hardy" its very easy to just wipe on an extra coat from time to time. If you use a varnish then as its starts to peel (it will) you will have to sand down and refinish it from scratch.

A different but related question: the wood I used is STK (small tight knots). Some of the knots are loose and some have splits/openings. Any recommendations on "filling" or somehow treating them? I figured I could knock out the loose ones and then put them back with some glue.

I havent tried it but I have heard of a technique that uses cyanoacrylate glue fed into the gaps around the knot. I think the idea was to do this before you started to work the wood but if you havent finished it yet shouldnet be a problem.

[JR]

The knothole problem is the easiest to solve. Use super glue, as has been mentioned, or two-part epoxy. Fill the hole, then file and sand to be flush with the wood. It IS that easy.

The question of finish is a tougher one. I don't work in cedar, but understand it to be similar to redwood, with which I am intimately familiar. Leaving it unfinished is fine. The wood will age well to a grey color, resisting checking, warping, cupping. I strongly urge you learn to like this look, and to do whatever it takes to make LOYL learn to like it.

If you absolutely must have a top coat, there are two ways to go. The first way is to assume you'll have to do frequent touch ups (frequent = once or twice a year). I am currently in this mode on my patio furniture, using BLO and elbow grease.

The second is to make a "permanent" topcoat. This is going to be spar varnish or something similarly thick and plastic-y. Fine Woodworking has an article on using a marine epoxy with polyurethane topcoat, which looks promising for this technique. I have tried UV-resistant poly with disappointing results.

HTH,
JR

[downtheroad]

I would like to keep the original color. Anyone know anything about just letting it be as is? I.e. does western cedar hold up enough to not even bother with "finishing"?

The cedar will weather to a silver-gray if left unfinished. If you like that look, then sure, you can leave it unfinished.

A different but related question: the wood I used is STK (small tight knots). Some of the knots are loose and some have splits/openings. Any recommendations on "filling" or somehow treating them? I figured I could knock out the loose ones and then put them back with some glue.

What works well is to use clear 2-part epoxy. Put tape over the knot/hole if it is open to the other side. Drizzle in the epoxy from the opposite side to lock in the knot and/or fill the hole. I use quick setting epoxy (5 minute) any tint it with a little bit of Mixol tints. It is also available at Woodcraft and other places online. If you have a larger hole you can mix some sanding dust from the cedar and mix it with the epoxy to make a sort of putty that can be used.

[LCHIEN]

leaving cedar unfinished will weather to a silver gray which is not bad-looking but certainly different than the fresh reddish brown it is now. Its defiately the low-maintenance finish, the others you will have to renew periodically.
Next piece I'm buidling I'm going to follow some advice I heard here which is to size (with slightly thinned waterproof glue) the ends in contact with the ground to prevent the uptake of too much moisture.

[cabinetman]

A stated, unfinished is an acceptable method. Using a pure oil finish in lieu of a spar type varnish would be an easier upkeep. Film finishes will get crusty and it is a PITA to do the sanding required. An oiled finish would only require a rub with bronze wool, or some synthetic fibered pad, and then be re-oiled.
.

[cwithboat]

TK Western Cedar with 2 coats Penofin after 2 winters, 1 1/2 summers

[Warren]

One word: Penofin red label, 99% UV blockage.

I suggest two coats this year, one coat next year and then forget it for four or five years.

[cwithboat]

One word: Penofin red label, 99% UV blockage.

I suggest two coats this year, one coat next year and then forget it for four or five years.

You are right. I had better slap another coat on this summer.