seems to be really coming along now sarge can't wait to see to see it when it is completely finished
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Phil In Ohio
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It is moving well so far, Phil. Hopefully nothing to slow it down too much as I still have to run groceries.. cut grass.. etc. etc. There is a Natural slow-down coming up as it is getting pretty close. When a coat of Danish gets dropped on.. it has to cure for several days.
Then comes shellac which cah be applied quickly but... it really needs to cure for at least a week and probably more as it's finally go humid in Georgia which is natural slow down to curing. So.. the long tedious waits are just around the corner.
But... all has gone well so far. After you do this what seems a gazillion times.. you don't waste much having to think about each and every detail that has just become familar. Kind of like cutting DT's by hand. 100 you get the knack.. 500 you get the feel... 1000 you are on the free-way and 10,000 means you can do it blind-folded. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..Comment
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Had to sit down and calculate an after the fact plan to tie the top and bottom chest to-gether as this is a first atttempt for me. Basically just an idea scribbled on a note-pad without major detail. Winging the tie-together so to speak. Perhapsnot the best approach.. but I felt comfortable I could before beggining.
But.. a very important step in my mind as I think it will define the difference between catching an eye or just being two boxes sitting on top of each other. The belt so to speak must blend the base and top treatment into one flow or the whole thing goes out of proportion I feel. I will find out soon.
Tie in with a false top between top and bottom begins after an hour of personal debate on how. And Danish oil gets laid to wait for the cure before final finish can proceed. A game of patience at this point as you want to rush to be done but... knowing that could lead to a booby trap exploding in your face.
Some minor detals can be accomplished meanwhile but I chose to wait for curing from past experience. The project will remain dormant until the fruit is ripe and ready to pick. So.... tick-tock.... tick-tock goes the clock and nothing can bring the finish line closer with those choices but time.Attached FilesLast edited by Guest; 07-14-2008, 11:56 AM.Comment
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Minor details have been attended to as I wait. Moulding has been made by either machine or hand profile scrapers or a combination of both. Ripping 5/8" moulding strips on a TS can be a dangerous challenge if you don't take safety precautions. But... once you do you can rip down to 3/8" IMO using a thin push stick without your hands coming closer than 10" to the blade.
Moulding cut and base Danish coat added. Drawer fronts have to be drilled to accept knobs. Other than that.. just a wait for Danish cure before the first coats of shellac can be padded on. Three to 5 coat of that and then another wait until it cures for the final rub-out and wax.
I use Liberon steel wool to apply Black Bison wax after the cure which kills two birds with one stone. You achieve a rub-out to cut the gloss sheen of the shellac and get the wax on with one step. Then the wax has to cure before the piece see's it's final purpose inside the home.
Finish requires patience... I will sometimes build something else while waiting as I can't stand to just sit idle. A combo TV stand and book-case was built in 5 days on my last chest a few months ago. Chisels and hand plane ironss get honed.. a new push stick.. anything I can do to avoid an interruption on the next project as there seems to always be a next project waiting in the wings at "my place".
But nothing stops the clock from it's tick-tock... tick-tock!Attached FilesComment
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looking good sarge
nobody will confuse you with rod kirby, look at all that sawdust
Phil In Ohio
The basement woodworkerComment
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I had some nifty picture once, Crash. New paint.. everything spot-less and in it's right-ful place. Once you get the pictures you jump in feet first and get it dirty. I have to take the over-head guard off to run those narrow strips. The cyclone force from below won't get what goes up so you end up with a mess without that over-head.
The good news is all my large machines are around a cyclone in the forward area near the double doors. I call it the "cut area" and even the machines in the rear shop get rolled up quickly to the "cut area" to make saw-dust. About every three hours I put on a dust mask.. hook up a 140 mph electric leaf blower.. open both doors and start in the back of the shop with a major "blow-out". Then the over-head air filter system is turned on and I go up for a 30 minute coffee break.
That is fine saw-dust you see and needs to be removed often. You can hand plane 1/8" off several 4"-8' boards and have .002 shaving accumulate up to your ankles. It's amazing what happens to those thin shaving as they de-compress coming off a plane iron. From the looks of all the shaving you would think several hundred board feet got planed.
Oh well.. if you spend 6-10 hours a day in the shop as I do currently... you are going to have dust and shaving. If you don't.. you are probably napping and not getting anything done.
Front drawer faces have been applied.. knobs will come latter so I can make a smooth pass with a shellac pad. The last detail gets done to-nite and padding of shellac on the carcasses which were Danish Oiled over a week ago begins tomorrow.
It things get dirty.. everything is put back in it's place before I leave at night and the shop gets the "grand finale blow-out". Life is good!
Regards to all...Comment
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A soft but very distinct voice from an un-known source broke the morning silence.... "And on the 33rd day... let there be shellac"..
And there was shellac....Attached FilesComment
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Molding has been attached... knobs on drawer fronts attached.. bottom and top chest united.. rear dust shield cut, shellaced and installed. A coat of Liberon Black Bison wax was applied with Liberon 0000 steel wool and buffed out.
Using the steel wool to apply wax acts as a final rub-out to take the sheen down a notch from shellac's gloss to semi-gloss saving a step. Full gloss would not be appropriate for the style. Basically a simple, functional design and really just one box on top of another box with drawers.
Take a little here and add a little there to attempt to make it as one and take off the rough edges. Heat has been horific for about a week and a half. Dehydration was starting to set in so a rest is due as the finish line has been finally reached. The wax has to cure a few days but on the 36th day just before mid-nite the journey has come to an end. No more steps to take as the chest just awaits the wax to cure and it becomes functional and is signed.. sealed and delivered.
I will slow down tomorrow and smell the roses and drink the coffee... but at my shop the end of one journey usually signals the start of another. Wednesday I sit down and visualize a coffee table. Draw up plans.. make a cut list and head to my hard-wood supplier. Thursday.. I take another firstl step as a journey no matter how long or how short ... is taken one step at a time!
I suppose I was born to be a "Traveling Man"..........
Last edited by Guest; 07-21-2008, 11:41 PM.Comment
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How did you end up attaching the custom knobs? I was wondering if they were going to be mortised into the front or not when I saw the photos of them in production. Looking forward to pics of the finished project.ErikComment
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Go back to post #27 and have a look at the knobs shown after they were individually cut from two single strips of wood. Look top center and you will see a hole pre-drilled on the DP. Dead center of each knob was marked and the DP fence set to I could simply slide the strip along to access each center mark. A through hole 9/32" (pilot I use for #Spax screws) was cut. Then I put a #8 screw pilot bit in the Press and make another run down the strip to counter-sink the hole so the screw head is 1/4" below the surface.
So... they are attached with screws. Ten screws to be exact. There are another 8 screws used to attach top fasterners under the top. That is the total amount of metal in the entire piece. 18 Spax screws as I do almost everything with wood joints. Nothing wrong with pocket screws... etc. but just not my style as I tend to be a "joiner-man".
You will see how I addressed those screw holes in the knobs along with a few other little last details with the pics which I will get posted soon. No big deal but small details can set the tone between two boxes sitting on top of each other or one flowing unit that hopefully will please an eye.
Did I achieve that result.....? I don't know! That is for you to decide. I have my opinion but it is just another opinion and I very well be pre-jusdice in this case so I will remain silent and weather any critique which is welcome.
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OK, I did notice the holes. Thanks for the explaination on how you did them. I was assuming there was going to be some sort of detailed plug for the holes. When I saw just one hole I was wondering if anything was going to keep the knob from spinning, unless there is going to be a bit of glue applied.ErikComment
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The pics did not get up close as I would have liked as I certainly lack any photo-graphy skill Pelligrini but... the screw holes got capped with a wood button. The head was stained dark to give a hint of contrast. My pictures are not very good and many fine details get hidden.
But... that's just the way it is as I am too old for either photo-graphy.. wood-working or design school. And perhaps a touch of too busy to boot.
See:.. Chip N' Dale.. Chest on Chest.... in finished projects section....Comment
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Yea, I just saw them, thanks. I zoomed in a bit on the photos and it revealed a little more of the detailing.ErikComment
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