Which wood?

[cwithboat]

I am the proud owner of a Sansui 800 stereo receiver. I bought it while in Japan in the navy in 1963; it is, beyond measure, the finest piece of electronic equipment I have ever owned. It still functions flawlessly. Over the years I have had to replace a couple of miniature light bulbs, nothing else. The receiver has been encased in a particle board cabinet with walnut veneer. Over the years the material has swelled due, no doubt, to the heat generated by the receiver and climatic variations. I would like to replace the cabinet. What wood should I use to accommodate the heat cycling? It is not a very large item, so even exotic woods would fit in my budget, and an elegant appearance is desired.

[Popeye]

Something like that would look good in teak. I think I might also think about enlarging the cabinet and adding a computer ventilation fan.
Navy in 63? Man I thought I was the old salt around here, but you have me by at least 8 years Pat

[cabinetman]

If you use a hardwood veneer faced plywood, you wouldn't have any issues.
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[cwithboat]

Something like that would look good in teak. I think I might also think about enlarging the cabinet and adding a computer ventilation fan.
Navy in 63? Man I thought I was the old salt around here, but you have me by at least 8 years Pat

Yeah, I patrolled the Great Dismal Swamp for JFK during the Cuban missile crisis and then chased gunboats with the Maddox and TJ in the gulf of Tonkin, then got extended (now called stop-loss) until I was released and went to college as a member of the first VN GI Bill class. I have worked with Teak (and Holly) before, that's a good solution. No fans though, the Sansui has weathered 45 years without them and I don't need the noise.

[Pappy]

C-Man is right. Any quality hardwood ply would work great. At the same time, I don't think the heat factor is enough to rule out any wood you want, as long as it is fully dried.

[Knottscott]

Are there any attractive hardwoods native to the region of Japan you were stationed at when you bought it?

[LCHIEN]

hey if its that great, then you should just get some real solid walnut and make a cabinet in the original style but out of solid walnut!

Keep the original classic look and appeal but make it out of better materials to last another 50 years.

The old Marantz classics of the 60's and 70's had optional walnut surround enclosures, rabetted for the panel faces and chamfered on the inside edges for an elegant look... not easy to do the chamfer handsomely on laminates and ply. For the Marantz collectors, a wood cabinet in excellent shape is highly prized.

here's some pround owners' photo of a Marantz in a WC22 walnut cabinet, probably dates to the early-mid 70's:
http://sportsbil.com/stereo/mrntz_2285b/

Here's an attached pic of another:

[Uncle Cracker]

When I saw this, I immediately thought of walnut-veneer ply. Good dimensional stability in all directions, and you can finish it beautifully.

[cabinetman]

As I previously suggested a hardwood plywood is your best bet. If you want some sort of detailed edge, cut the plywood in running lengths, and add a solid wood edge. Then do whatever machining to the lengths. When you cut the sides and top and bottom, it would be like working with solid wood. You could do a mitered corner or lock miter, for the joinery.
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[cwithboat]

here's some pround owners' photo of a Marantz in a WC22 walnut cabinet, probably dates to the early-mid 70's:
http://sportsbil.com/stereo/mrntz_2285b/

Here's an attached pic of another:

Thanks Loring. That looks very much like the old enclosure.

[germdoc]

Maybe I'm in the minority but I would think for a cabinet that small the effect of wood movement would be minimal--you can make it a little (1/32" or so) oversize and attach with some play to allow for movement. I've made many boxes that size out of maple, walnut, etc., and there's no noticable movement.

If it warps, you can always replace it...

You might think of a highly figured exotic wood like bubinga or cocobolo or padauk. You could put in a strip of contrasting wood like purpleheart or ebony or add an inlay. I would be tempted to dovetail the joints, but that's just me--I love dovetailed joints!

[cwithboat]

Thank you all for your inputs. In the end the decision was made on the available stock at the only lumber store in the area (i.e., requires no bridge or ferry travel) that carries hardwood. I choose mahogany S2S because it was the prettiest piece and because it was 10 1/4 " wide, allowing a two piece top panel.