Grooves on the TS

[radhak]

I need to put a quick wooden 'frame' around a plastic lattice for a neighbor. I want it to be light, so thought 1x2 pine would be good for this, with around 1" deep grooves along the inner edges to seat the lattice.

Re-thinking, I feel I could make these grooves on both edges of a 1x4, and rip it in the middle for two pieces.

The thickness of the lattice is short of 1/4", so instead of using my dado set, two runs with a single blade on the TS might be better (I'd slightly overlap the cuts so the thickness of the groove stays below 1/4").

So effectively I'd be running a 3/4" thick stock on it's edge, with the blade 1" high, and the fence pretty close (even if I add an auxiliary fence). My question is - how can I make this cut safely? With the 1x4, the wood would be high enough for me use my hand to push it thru, but am not sure I should. With the blade-guard, it would interfere with using a push-stick. So do I remove the guard and depend on the feather-board and downward pressure by push-stick to keep the piece straight? Or am I missing any other easier method?

edit : the lattices are sized 3' x 5', and there are 3 of them.

[crokett]

I'd make the grooves with your dado blade. That way you can do it in one pass. Having them slightly oversize is ok, you want the plastic to float anyway since it will expand/contract at different rates than the wood will.

Featherboards are a must here. I'd also rip them to width and crosscut to length before making the grooves since that will make the stock more manageable.

[LarryG]

If you have a conventional blade guard, you MUST remove it for a non-thru cut, right?

I'd do it exactly the way you describe, and it wouldn't bother me WRT safety. But that's not to say YOU should do it if it bothers YOU. One possible compromise would be to use a 1x6, so you'd have a taller piece to hold onto, and end up with ~2" of waste in the center when you rip the two edge pieces away.

[DonHo]

You didn't say but if your saw blade is a thin kerf 2 passes will be less than 1/4" even at full blade width. Even if it's full kerf I'd go ahead and use 2 full width passes and flip the board and put the other side against the fence on the second cut to center the cut in the board.

DonHo

[LCHIEN]

I'd do it the way you said, 1x4 on edge, you can handhold pretty comfortably esp. since the blade will be buried.
One thing, 1" deep dado is pretty deep esp. for such a small piece of wood. Would 1/2" or even less be plenty?
I'd consider the dado blade, if nothing else it save half the passes. I guess it depends on how close to 1/4" you are.
If you want to make two passes with a regular blade, the consider just flipping the board end for end with the blade just to left (or right) of center. You may end up with a sliver of wood ( I did this the other night making .200" dados with my TK blade.)

[radhak]

If you have a conventional blade guard, you MUST remove it for a non-thru cut, right?

Ouch! Totally forgot that !

I measured with my digital calipers, and it showed the thickness of the lattice to be 0.206", while my dado has a minimum of 1/4" (0.25").
So...<doing the actual math now>...that's a difference of only 0.04", or 1/25". Duh - y'all are right (as always), the dado does make sense.

Loring, maybe the full inch is not needed. I just thinkin I might need some surface to fasten the wood to the lattice in a couple of places; but 1/2" might do as well; and maybe just the frame should hold the lattice in? It's gonna be used as a 'safety gate' of sorts, to keep her dogs out of the kitchen .

I was thinking the full kerf blade, but a single pass with the dado is the way I should do it now.

[cabinetman]

If you do it on the TS, cut your lengths close to what they will ultimately be, so you're not having to control long stock. Don't be in a rush and make as many passes as necessary.

Or, you could do this on your table router if you feel it's safer.
.

[steve-norrell]

Both the BORG and Lowe's sell edges for plastic lattice that match the colors of the lattice. I have used it to edge some lattice work around our house. If this would work for you, you also eliminate some maintenance issues.

Not that I like plastic more than wood . . . just an alternate suggestion. Regards, Steve