True & Square

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  • JimD
    Veteran Member
    • Feb 2003
    • 4187
    • Lexington, SC.

    #16
    I answered the second item because I think it is usually what I have to mess with but I also cut things to the right size, item 1, and I use clamp pads (but I do not see what they have to do with keeping things square) and I use a clamp on the diagonal when I need to. In other words, I'm saying first 4 like Cabinetman (I think he was the first).

    I also use a square inside of things to check. The larger the better. My favorite are large drafting triangles.

    Jim

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    • jhart
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2004
      • 1715
      • Minneapolis, MN, USA.
      • BT3100

      #17
      As one of those who answered "whats square", it was somewhat in jest, as I have tried various ways at various times and still seem to have problems getting really square. It is getting better, but I think most of it boils down to the marking and cutting aspect. I keep learning from all the good folks on this forum. Thanks
      Joe
      "All things are difficult before they are easy"

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      • JimD
        Veteran Member
        • Feb 2003
        • 4187
        • Lexington, SC.

        #18
        It's also hard to be perfectly square when the stock is not perfectly straight. In other words, when you are working with wood, and especially solid wood, I want things square but I do not expect perfectly square. I like large squares to even out some of the small variations in straightness of the wood.

        Jim

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        • RonT
          Forum Newbie
          • Jun 2006
          • 30
          • Florida
          • Old Craftsman

          #19
          I use the first three.

          I have a glue up table with a non-stick top and two attached adjacent rails that are 90 degrees to each other. With accurate cutting, I can glue up one corner and clamp the two adjacent side to the rails, hence, the first square corner. Then everthings falls in place and the whole system stays square until the glue dries.

          If the build is too large to fit on the table, I seperately glue up two opposite corners. Then I join the glue ups to form the carcass.

          This has worked well for me for years.

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          • RonT
            Forum Newbie
            • Jun 2006
            • 30
            • Florida
            • Old Craftsman

            #20
            The "Pinch Bar" is an excellant idea. The metal machining industry uses this same concept to measure IDs, they're called snap gauges but, never thought of using it here. Thanks for the photos.

            It looks like dowels were used on the ends. If I may, you can improve the ease of using this tool if the dowels are rounded over in all planes. Then you can get the Bar in and out of work piece without it binding.
            Last edited by RonT; 03-13-2008, 06:18 AM.

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            • rnelson0
              Established Member
              • Feb 2008
              • 424
              • Midlothian, VA (Richmond)
              • Firestorm FS2500TS

              #21
              I voted for the first three AND what is square
              It's also hard to be perfectly square when the stock is not perfectly straight.
              This is why. Right now, I am mostly working with 2x and 1x material and since I don't have a jointer or planar, that limits how square I can get things to how many hours I want to spend sanding stuff down. When I am ready to build some boxes, I am sure it will become more important, at which time I'm sure I'll be buying a lot of aids (corner clamps, etc) to help me out.

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