Applying pressure sensitive veneer

[JR]

The guy at the hardwood store says, "Yeah, we've got alder veneer, right here in these pressure sensitive sheets." "Perfect!" says I.

Well, I check the mfrs web site and they put the fear of God in me. "Use the scraper tool. “J” rollers do not result in sufficient nip pressure. Insufficient pressure during application is the major cause of delaminating and checking after application." http://www.flexwood.com/psa_instructions.html

They also recommend against using the 24" panels side by side, which is what my application calls for.

It's the underside of a table top, so I'm willing to take chances, if necessary. Any input as to how much trouble I'm in here?

JR

[bmyers]

Hi JR,

Let me see if I'm following you here. You want to laminate the underside of a table top with alder veneer so people don't think you used plywood? How about buying maple plywood and do whatever you want to the ugly side of that for the table top?

If you are using solid hardwood for the top and going to make the underside pleasing to the eye also. I think big wide sheets might crack due to expansion unless you're gonna cross grain it.

Otherwise, you have a regular finish scraper right? Of course you do.. Maybe that would work? make a simple handle for it to apply extra pressure.

For me, if somebody is on the floor looking at the underside of my furniture, I'm not going to ask them if they like the alder veneer. I'll call them a cab or 911 instead, whichever seems most appropriate. But I don't know, you live in California and it's "different" out there.

More info couldn't hurt on what you have in mind with this project.

Cheers,
Bill

[pecker]

I think the recommendation against joining sheets side by side is because you'll never get a perfect seam. It would be extremely difficult to line the two edges perfectly, and there'd be nothing to tie them together. But since it's on the underside no one will notice a slight gap there.

As for achieving enough pressure, investigate (google) a veneer hammer. You can cobble one together. No need to buy something you'll never use again

[cabinetman]

For some applications, the edges of mating sheets can be taped together before laying up. With proper diligence, seams can be very tight using any application method. As for the veneer hammer, an edge of a block of wood works better, IMO.
.

[Carlos]

For me, if somebody is on the floor looking at the underside of my furniture, I'm not going to ask them if they like the alder veneer. I'll call them a cab or 911 instead, whichever seems most appropriate.

ROFL.

I would try matching the panels and taping (blue tape) first. Then you'll know if they will look alright.

[JR]

But I don't know, you live in California and it's "different" out there.

More info couldn't hurt on what you have in mind with this project.

I can't get no respect! (as I pull on my tie, Dangerfield style). I guess I did leave out a few details...

It's two thicknesses of 3/4" plywood. The top layer is alder veneered, the bottom layer is junk. I'm veneering the underside for exactly the reasons you surmised, Bill. I'd hate for a visitor to praise the work on his way in, only to discover shoddy workmanship just prior to his removal. The top is going on this thing.



Good suggestions for the use of tape to align the sheets. Also the veneer hammer looks effective. I'd never heard of that before, and it looks like something that can built in the shop, as Pecker suggested.

Thanks for talking me of the ledge, guys.

JR

[bmyers]

Wow, that's really coming along nicely JR! Is the rest of it alder too? It seems to have a Stickly feel to it, oak maybe? I can say my experiance lies more in people passed out on my floor than with veneering the underside of tables. So you can understand my curiosity on how it's done...

You still got some good suggestions here though.

I can see why you want to do that now from the picture. You sort of will be in there looking at it.

Be sure to post pix when you've got it finished.


Bill

[JR]

, oak maybe?

I can see why you want to do that now from the picture. You sort of will be in there looking at it.

All alder, Bill, for two reasons. It matches the furniture in my office, and I could get it in 12/4, which made the legs nice and stout.

Yeah, one could reasonably expect to be going into the lower shelf area. It would be a shame to spend all this time on a project, then be dissatisfied every time I reached for a book.

JR

[bmyers]

All alder, Bill, for two reasons. It matches the furniture in my office, and I could get it in 12/4, which made the legs nice and stout.

Yeah, one could reasonably expect to be going into the lower shelf area. It would be a shame to spend all this time on a project, then be dissatisfied every time I reached for a book.

JR

That's one reason we build furniture, so it's just the way we want it.. It's looking good so far. You got of all of stout and a bag a chips there.

Maybe you had not done it yet for the photo but I didn't see a chamfer on the bottoms of the legs. You might want that. I've found it gets rid of splintering of the legs when it is moved around.

You should be a little easier on your house guests too. You don't want clumsy paramedics with a gurney dinging up all that nice alder furniture. My experience has been that they are very inconsiderate when removing people off of ones floor and out of the house.

Bill

[JR]

Thanks for the advice, Bill. I have not chamfered to bottoms of the legs, but you make a very good point about splintering. I'll take a close look at that.

I got the laminating done last night. It was my first time doing that. It came out ok, but is not "top-shelf" quality where the seems meet. Good enough for the underside, though, as long as it doesn't de-laminate.

One last thing to do now, trim the top, and it's ready for stain.

JR