Router Table Construction Question

[burrellski]

I'm in the process of building a new router table. My top is 2 layers of 3/4" MDF laminated on both sides. What is the best way to attach this to my router cabinet? The top of the cabinet is 3/4" plywood. Do I just screw through the plywood and laminate into the mdf? What about glue? Poly glue maybe?

Thanks
Matt

[Garasaki]

Glued and screwed is how I'd do it.

Your essentially laminating the MDF onto the plywood right?

You don't need any fancy smancy glue....

[LCHIEN]

I'd leave the 1.5" thick laminated MDF top removable so you can modify it or service it or even move it to another table if you want. Just screwing it on should be solid enough for any and all routing work. You can unscrew it later for the purposes I suggested.

[LarryG]

I'd use screws only, as a hedge against the possible need to someday remove the top. This could also provide a means to tweak the leveling of the top, if necessary.

If I'm reading you right and your top assembly has plastic laminate on the bottom, if you do use glue you'd need to use something that will bond to the laminate. That typically means contact cement, applied after scuffing up the laminate surface so it'll have a tooth.

[radhak]

If i get this right, you'd end up with plywood-layer meeting laminate which is already glued to the mdf.

Have no experience of it myself, but get a feeling the laminate might be pretty resistant to glue - no?

I am assuming this must be the smooth-face of the laminate as the other glue-friendly face must be towards the mdf. You might end up depending of the screws more than the glue.

[DonHo]

I'd use pocket hole screws. Just enough to secure the top solidly, maybe two per side.
DonHo

[steve-norrell]

I will join in recommending screws. Two layers of MDF is heavy enough so you would only need a few screws to hold the top in place.

If you are using T-tracks or a Miter track is it possible to put the screws under the track?

Regards, Steve

[Garasaki]

Glued and screwed is how I'd do it.

Your essentially laminating the MDF onto the plywood right?

You don't need any fancy smancy glue....

Totally missed the bit about the mdf being laminated!

If you want it permanent, I would screw and gorilla glue it or maybe use epoxy (mostly cause i have epoxy in the shop - it'd be effective but probably overkill)

[newood2]

If you haven't laminate the top as yet you could install T-nuts.
As the example below, you could use 4 or 6 T-nuts(5/16" should be OK) or as you prefer. Countersink them at least 1/8" using a forstner bit. Drill the holes for the T-nuts in the table top, make sure they are perpendicular (straight)to the top. Line up the table to the cabinet and clamp it, then drill through the plywood. Make sure to use bolt length that will reach no more than within 1/8" of the top when tightened. This will make your top easily removable for modification later without the pain of screwing into the MDF

[burrellski]

Thanks for all of the help.

I like the idea of the t-nuts, but I'm worried about the small areas of unsupported laminate on the top after counterboring the t-nuts. What about moisture concerns drilling 5/16"+ holes clear through the top in several places? I guess I am cutting a big rectangle out of the middle that is going to be exposed.

Under the t-tracks is another idea I hadn't thought of. I was planning on epoxying the t-track in place, but I wouldn't necessarily have to.

Thanks everybody

[newood2]

Thanks for all of the help.

I like the idea of the t-nuts, but I'm worried about the small areas of unsupported laminate on the top after counterboring the t-nuts. What about moisture concerns drilling 5/16"+ holes clear through the top in several places? I guess I am cutting a big rectangle out of the middle that is going to be exposed.

Under the t-tracks is another idea I hadn't thought of. I was planning on epoxying the t-track in place, but I wouldn't necessarily have to.

Thanks everybody

The small areas will be 3/4" to 7/8" circles (depending on 1/4" or 5/16" T-nuts ) which is no problem for the laminate, just be sure to put a piece of tape over the T-nuts to prevent the adhesive from clogging the hole.
If your table is say 24 X 32, then four 1/4" bolts will probably do, but that's your call.
As far as drilling 4 to 6 (1/4" or 5/16") holes and moisture concerns. None.
You can seal the router plate cutout with poly or shellac.
Using epoxy for T-track is fine but I would still put screws, at least one on each end and center.

[John Hunter]

Have you considered hinging the top? That is how I built mine and it is great! The top swings up and locks at a perfect angle to eye bit height.

[LarryG]

If you haven't yet cut the slots for the T-tracks -- don't. Build your fence long enough to clamp it to the top overhang on both ends. Lose the miter slot, too.

The cutout for the router is okay because it goes all the way through. Slots for tracks don't, and needlessly compromise the top's integrity.