How to mill this?

[Salty]

How would you suggest that this piece be made?
The stock would begin with 3/4 x 1.25" finished and about 30" long and is hickory in this case.
The profile calls for a 2-level rabbit cut. The center one is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide and the outer one is 1/2" x 1/2". The profile is sketched below.
I know from experience that it is foolish, and dangerous, to try this on a router table unless you have a lot of featherboards to keep the piece from moving. I thought about doing the center one first, which I recently did on another project. But getting the deeper one cut has me wondering. Would a featherboard on the top and side be enough to keep it positioned correctly while going through the router table? I suppose because the trailing edge is still intact it would prevent it from tilting. That would demand that the deeper cut be made in only 1 pass.
Maybe using the tablesaw would be a better choice, but the cut would be rough. Even though there would be plywood against the inside of the cut, it would show imperfections if it is not smooth.
Thanks for the help and opinions.

[LCHIEN]

Pieces like this are tricky to hold for the second cut.

What I would do, is NOT Start with a piece that is the size of your molding and then make two rabbet cuts.

What I would do, is start with a 1x4.
ON a table saw or router table I could then make the two rabbet cuts in any order you think best. Using push blocks on the full thickness portion of the workpiece I don't think top featherboards are necessary.
Finally, on a table saw, I would rip off the orange piece to the width of the orange thingy you show.

As long as the workpiece is more than twice the width of your molding, I think it would be safe. You can always save the pieces that are too narrow and use them for something else.

As an aside, I found tbale saw rabbets and dados to be cleaner than router dados and rabbets.

[Uncle Cracker]

Loring's got the right idea. But if you don't have a 1x4 (or 6 or 8) to begin with, you can cut either rabbet with the dado blade on the TS, and then fill it in temporarily with a scrap piece while you cut the other one. This will give you a stable base while you cut the second.

[LCHIEN]

yeah, you could use wider pieces than a 1x4 I suggested as an example. Also I would do both edges at the same time as long as it was wide enough, to save setup time. Then rip two pieces off leaving the middle.

[gerti]

How about a filler strip, and just a single rabbit in the hickory?

[Duff]

What about just taking two 3/4" by 1 1/4" pieces and make a 1 1/2" by 1 1/4" and then you've got no issues......

[JimD]

Another option is to cut the blue dado first (I would use my BT3100 and Freud stacked dado) and then turn the piece up on edge to cut the brown rabbett. A feather board is indicated, probably for both but certainly for the cut on edge.

Jim

[crokett]

Why not a handheld router and an edge guide? No worries about supporting the piece if you do it that way.

[cabinetman]

If you don't feel safe doing the steps on the TS or with a router, you could cut three appropriately sized strips and do a three part glue up.
.

[Lee4847]

How about routing the shallow one then hot gluing a filler strip in to keep it level while you route the deeper cut. after you are done you can pop the hot glued filler strip out of the piece. You could also use double stick tape to hold the filler strip.

[Salty]

Wow, thanks all. So many good suggestions for sure.
Well, I don't own a stacked dado blade and I'm not sure I want to buy one just for 2 corner strips. Good idea on using a wider piece and the ideas of filler strips are also good. Not sure I could glue up thin strips and make it look good let alone get them cut well enough to begin with.
Keep in mind here that I am limited on tools, mainly because I am limited for shop space.
gerti's suggestion got me thinking on this more and it occured to me that the cuts do not need to be different depths. This piece just covers the plywood corner joint so I can make them both 1/2" deep. I will just need to add 1/4" to the width of the plywood. That way I can cut out the inside with 2 table saw cuts and be able to sand it smooth where it meets the plywood. I did this on the kitchen cabinet reface with a 1/8" x 1/4" size so this shouldn't be any more difficult. Just have to set up plenty of featherboards. Also, the newly resharpened freud blade has yet to be used.

Thanks again all for the help. Much appreciated. This is a great forum!