What adhesive should I use

[Bruce Cohen]

I'm in the final death throes of finishing this god awful desk and I have to affix three false drawer fronts to the drawer boxes. As both the back of the false fronts and the faces of the boxes are finished using Watco, and although I'm screwing (2 screws per front) them together, I'd feel safer with the added strength of an adhesive,

Will Tightbond III or epoxy work, or is Liquid Nails a better choice??

Bruce

[JimD]

Bruce,

Tightbond III needs to sink in to work. Epoxy or liquoid Nails might work. What I do, however, is get a longer bolt for the knob or handle and bolt it through the drawer and false front. Plenty secure with a screw or two to prevent rotation.

Jim

[cabinetman]

I'm in the final death throes of finishing this god awful desk and I have to affix three false drawer fronts to the drawer boxes. As both the back of the false fronts and the faces of the boxes are finished using Watco, and although I'm screwing (2 screws per front) them together, I'd feel safer with the added strength of an adhesive,

Will Tightbond III or epoxy work, or is Liquid Nails a better choice??

Bruce

Bruce

Do NOT glue on the false front. Just screw it on from the inside of the drawer box. It should be removable in the event it gets damaged or needs to be replaced.

P.S. Make sure you use the correct length screws so ya don't come bustin' thru. And, oh yeah, one more ting. Countersink the screw heads on the inside of the drawer box so nobody gets scratched up and sues your butt.
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[LCHIEN]

I'm with Cab'man, screws should be more than fine and allow for repair.

[RodKirby]

Use thin double-sided tape for alignment.

I always use 4 screws from the inside.

[cabinetman]

Use thin double-sided tape for alignment.

If alignment is a big problem, these drawer adjusters get mortised in the back of the drawer front, and allow slip movement to the drawer front. Or, if you're on a budget, just make two of the mounting holes, or one near the center, away from the handle/knob hole(s), somewhat larger and use a screw with a washer to move the drawer front until it finally gets positioned. Then put in two other screws and plug the original holes (like with toothpicks). Or, use a smaller screw for the adjustment and replace with the final size screw. Whew!!
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[crokett]

Bruce, IMO the screws will work just fine by themselves. These are not structural. If you follow Jim's suggestion then you've effectively added a third screw.

[Bruce Cohen]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the help. Maybe I should have mentioned that the drawer boxes are 1/2" thick and the false drawer front is also 1/2". The drawer pull is not a single knob, but a mortised (and recessed) handle. No screws are going thru to the boxes from the pull.

What I think I'll do is add 2 more screws (total 4) to hold the false front to the box.

Does this sound half-way intelligent?

Bruce

[crokett]

4 screws would work. If you really wanted to get clever you coud do something with sliding dovetails. The drawer fronts would not separate then.