Routing rails /stiles

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  • leehljp
    The Full Monte
    • Dec 2002
    • 8786
    • Tunica, MS
    • BT3000/3100

    #16
    Jim,

    You are right in the what you are doing with the sled. I have a very good and heavy duty miter gauge that I use like a sled, and with a backer, to prevent splitting on the ends of the stiles.

    For the length of stiles and rails, I set my fence to where I want the final cut to be. I then add two (2) 1/4 in thick ply boards and one (1) 1/8 in plywood backers - clampled to the front of the fence. I run everything through once, take one backer off, which places the rails and stiles 1/4 inch closer to the fence. Run everything through again; take the other 1/4 backer off, run again; take the 1/8 fence backer off and run for the final run.

    As far as the ends of the stiles - I have the fence set. But with my miter gauge and backer board I run it through at about 1/4 inch and repeat. The fence setting is my final run through. My backer to the stile ends is usually at least 2 in wide oak or some other hard wood.

    My miter gauge is the heavy duty and solid Woodhaven gauge and it does wonders on this kind of job and handles like a solid coping sled.
    Last edited by leehljp; 11-17-2007, 05:18 PM.
    Hank Lee

    Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

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    • JimD
      Veteran Member
      • Feb 2003
      • 4187
      • Lexington, SC.

      #17
      I have miter gauge slots in my router table but I do not usually use one because I do not like setting the fence parallel to the miter gauge. A combination square is handy when I want to use a miter gauge (so I can check both ends of the fence to make sure it is parallel). I always cope the ends first so that any tearout (or at least my normal amount of tearout) is removed when the long grain is cut. The harder cut to make in one pass is the end grain. It is a good idea to cut the first piece long to get a feel for what feed rate works best (if you do not like the first cut, you trim it off). Too fast and chipping is bad and cut may be less accurate. Too slow and it burns (but fortunately burning will not show on this cut unless it is really bad).

      The advantage of the sled is that it is always square to the fence. The disadvantage is keeping it tight to the fence is another thing to keep track of.

      Jim

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      • leehljp
        The Full Monte
        • Dec 2002
        • 8786
        • Tunica, MS
        • BT3000/3100

        #18
        Originally posted by JimD
        The advantage of the sled is that it is always square to the fence. The disadvantage is keeping it tight to the fence is another thing to keep track of.

        Jim
        Dang Jim, Now I gotta go get me a sled, or make me one!
        Hank Lee

        Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

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        • Black wallnut
          cycling to health
          • Jan 2003
          • 5513
          • Ellensburg, Wa, USA.
          • BT3k 1999

          #19
          Jim I replied in the exact way I did based on the same reasons that Hank used. I also always make these cuts in one pass. It can be done. It has been done by many. That said it is always safer to make multiple cuts rather than one large cut. New woodworkers are better being safe than taking a chance and getting injured.
          Donate to my Tour de Cure


          marK in WA and Ryobi Fanatic Association State President ©

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          • newood2
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2004
            • 600
            • Brooklyn, NY.
            • BT3100-1

            #20
            Thanks for the feedback. I had no problem making one pass in pine and maple with the Katana bits, except getting burn marks on the maple. So I tried two passes, first 1/4", then with 1/8" left for final pass it did feel safer and smoother with no burn marks.
            As you said it will take some practice.

            Howie

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            • cabinetman
              Gone but not Forgotten RIP
              • Jun 2006
              • 15216
              • So. Florida
              • Delta

              #21
              Originally posted by newood2
              Thanks for the feedback. I had no problem making one pass in pine and maple with the Katana bits, except getting burn marks on the maple. So I tried two passes, first 1/4", then with 1/8" left for final pass it did feel safer and smoother with no burn marks.
              As you said it will take some practice.

              Howie

              You might find on some procedures the last pass may be something like 1/32", for that just shaved look.

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