Routing rails /stiles

[newood2]

When routing rails and stiles on the router table, do you make one pass or two passes? That's on 3/4" maple, using an ogee profile bit -cutting 3/8" depth groove- with Hiachi M12V Router.

Howie

[cabinetman]

Even though you've got the power, I would still do it in at least two maybe three passes. You can maintain much better control with smaller depth cuts, and the last pass should be just a skim pass to clean it all up.

[footprintsinconc]

exactly what CM said. when i did mine for my laundry room. the doors were made out of red oak. i did them in two passes only. there were burn marks in places. like CM said, the first two should take off most of the material, while the last one is only going to clean up the cut.

[Sawatzky]

I tried my first set of doors with one pass and they did not turn out well. Now I take at least two and the cuts come out very smooth.

[drumpriest]

I take a few light cuts, I just feel that I get better results that way, and sneak up on the last one. Mostly I do 2 + 1 where the last is the sneak up one.

[Tom Hintz]

I use Infinity bits and have always done the rail and stile cuts in one pass. I just did a bunch of oak doors and drawer fronts for a kitchen rebuild and they all came out very nice. I use a PC 3 HP router.
When routing the raised panels, I make several light cuts on the way to the final profile.

[leehljp]

For me, 2 or 3 plus sneak up on the last one! If you are inexperienced in this, taking light cuts is better; and it can be dangerous taking big bites without the experience.

It can be done in one cut very skillfully and precisely but it does take experience.

[footprintsinconc]

the quality of the bit definitely is a factor. the better the cutters, the easier it is to cut. however, not until you have had lots of experience, you should still do at least two passes. take your time, its better to be safe than sorry. do a few and see what works best for you for your given router & router bits.

[JimD]

I guess I am in the minority but I do rail and stile cuts in one pass. I have done it in a lot of oak doors, a lot of softwood doors, a few maple doors, etc.. I tried multiple passes a few times but if my hands are not completely steady or I hold the wood a bit different, I get a groove that is a bit oversize and/or a tenon a bit undersize and the joints do not fit well. I get good results consistently with one pass. Normally I am using my Ryobi R-500 (13.3A) but I have done the same thing with my PC690.

I cope the end grain and then cut the profile, both in one pass. I raise panels in 3 or 4 cuts.

Jim

[drumpriest]

Jim, have you used a coping sled? And what bits are you using? I don't think it's possible to cut too deeply with the set I have.

[MikeMcCoy]

You aren't the only one Jim. I do it in a single pass also. I use a coping sled or scrap of the same project to prevent chip out.

[JimD]

I have three sets but have only used two so far. My original set was an ogee profile set from Grizzly where you switch the bit between the two cuts. I do not recommend this sort of bit, it is a little bit of pain to switch around, but I made a dozen or more doors in oak with that bit.

My next bit is a stacked quarter round bit from MLCS. I bought it to match the profile on the kitchen doors the builder put into our current house. I like it but I have to admit the amount of bit sticking up and spinning while you make the stick cut bothers me a bit. I especially like this bit with a coping sled with a bed of 1/2 baltic birch plywood. That makes the bit elevation change minimal between the two cuts.

My latest set is a replacement for the Grizzly and is a two bit set. I have not used it yet but I am sure it will work fine. It was on closeout at Price Cutters, I forget the make. It was only $40. Part of the reason I bought it was a brief piece in a magazine pointing out that both cuts get made with the face side of the work down with this sort of bit. That could help make the sanding to even out the joints less but we'll see.

As long as the bit is sharp, I doubt the type and manufacturer makes a lot of difference. I would be a bit hessitant to use the Grizzly on hardwood now, for instance. I like a coping sled with a clamp for that cut but I made a lot of doors with just a scrap piece cut at right angles backing the workpiece.

Jim

[leehljp]

Jim and Mike, there is nothing wrong with doing it in one pass, for the experienced person.

Usually when someone posts a question asking if it is OK to do this, or how many passes should be used, that raises a red flag in my mind that the person does not know for sure and in most probability does not experience that either of you, or some of us have. Can it be done, yes. Should it be done as a matter of fact - NO. Not without experience.

In this case for Newood2, I would recommend him doing 2 or 3 steps even if I did it in one. In the past on this forum, there have been accidents in which people new to woodworking had accidents that many experience people knew how to prevent, simply by their experience. Their (and your) experience gives you feel, touch and grip, sense in hearing and feel feedback that tells you adjustments that need to be made in the grip and feed rate. An experienced person makes instantaneous and instinctive adjustments that the inexperienced does not have - and in which a board shattering instant is only a missed "feel" (two router rotations) away.

[Black wallnut]

I agree with Hank! Even though it can be done in one pass there is plenty that can go wrong, even to those of us with plenty of experience. My left index finger tells the tale and I will carry the scare to my grave. It is far better to be safe than sorry. For what it is worth IMHO arched doors should be avoided for these same reasons. With an arch there is no fence involved. It also involves both with the grain cuts and against the grain cuts. I'm not trying to hijack the topic but only bring this up to make people think.

If at all possible one should use multiple passes. You will have more control. Cuts will be cleaner. Keep in mind we are talking routers here, not shapers.

[JimD]

Mark and Hank,

For the cope cut, I think a good sled is a better safety measure than multiple cuts. It would also help if you want to make multiple cuts, however, since there is a better chance of cutting in the same place twice. Mine has a quick action clamp to hold the piece down and a t-shaped piece to fit into a t-slot on the fence of my router table. It also has a hand-saw shaped handle well away from the piece being cut.

The secret of doing wood working with all your fingers intact is keeping your fingers out of the cutters. My only serious injury was with a biscuit joiner when I decided to recut some slots that were the wrong depth on short pieces of maple. The blade grabed and I needed stiches. I knew at the time I did these cuts that I was being stupid but I was out of maple and didn't want to drive to the store and buy more. The trip to the store would have been a lot cheaper in time and money.

If taking multiple passes makes you more confident I have no problem with that and would not encourage you to do something that doesn't feel right. If I had listened to my brain I wouldn't have a tiny bit shorter little finger on my left hand.

The only danger I see on sticking cuts either with a fence or without is the wood splitting while I am pushing it into the cutter. Door frames should be straight grained pieces without splits for multiple reasons - this is one of them. If the wood doesn't split and you use push sticks and feather boards, I do not see a safety issue with one pass. I haven't made many arched doors but have made half a dozen. I didn't love making them but would do so again if LOML wanted some.

Jim