red oak slabs

[davwho]

my neighbor just cut down a few trees and cut me some nice 1-2 inch ,6-14 inch diameter oak slabs and i would like to make some clocks ,weather stations ,etc. But im a new woodworker and would like some info or direction on sealing,finishing,etc.
any help would be appreciated !!

Thanks
Dave

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I don't understand the question. Is it 1-2" slabs or is it 6-14" diameter limbs/trunks ie has it been milled into slabs? Is 6 - 14" the width versus diameter? How are you going to get the wood moisture content down to a workable level? You got a good year or two of air drying before it needs to hit the kiln. Have you sealed the ends of the slabs to help in drying out? This is a LOT of information and work that needs to be digested for a new woodworker.

[LCHIEN]

my neighbor just cut down a few trees and cut me some nice 1-2 inch ,6-14 inch diameter oak slabs and i would like to make some clocks ,weather stations ,etc. But im a new woodworker and would like some info or direction on sealing,finishing,etc.
any help would be appreciated !!

Thanks
Dave

Are these circular pieces cut cross the grain from the main trunk or limbs,
6-14" diameter and 1-2" thick?

There's a good chance they'll split as they dry. It'll take some time to dry. Faster than 2 yrs but maybe someone has some useful info on how to keep from splitting/checking.

Or are you talking about slabs (thick boards) of real boards cut with the grain as most lumber is cut?

The ends need to be sealed to prevent checking (ends splitting) and the lumber stacked and stickered for a couple of years to dry.

[davwho]

Yes these Are the circular pieces cut cross the grain from the main trunk or limbs,
6-14" diameter and 1-2" thick?

i figured they would split ,but because there small i thought there could be a way i can work with them to prevent splitting,i think they would look great nicely finished,so i would like to try something ,any ideas or a web site i can get some info on
Thanks again

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Oh, I got ya now. And now that I got ya I have absolutely no idea how to dry that without cracking! Moisture escapes end grain much faster and you are basically dealing with 100% end grain.

[LCHIEN]

Basically moisture escapes the ends of grain quickly so the piece will dry in much less than 2 years. (since moisture only has to travel 2")
The problem I see is that as the wood dries, the long fibers (down the grain will not change length much but as the fibers dry the wood shrinks acorss the grain much more.

In a large round piece the shrinkage will be in the circumferential direction meaning that if you draw rings around the wood flat face corresponging to the growth rings then the outer circumference will shrink 10% and the inner circumference will shrink 10%. If it cracks in one line then you will have a pie-slice shaped gap missing.

At least, that would be the tendency. I'm not sure what the solution is.

Maybe you seal the faces with varnish or whatever early before it dries and that will prevent it from drying out? Is that possible?

[leehljp]

There are things that you can do to prevent the cracking and splitting, but they should be done within a few hours of being cut. If they are not cracked by now, you can keep them soaked in water for about 24 to 48 hours until you can do a more permanent solution.

Coating with Pentacryl is the best. Coating liberally with latex paint, hot wax works some. These last two methods do well for logs to keep them from checking (cracking) but not necessarily short pieces. Still, it is worth a try.

[Ken Massingale]

As the others said, that'll be tough.
Hank's Pentacyrl suggestion is your best hope, then put the pieces in sawdust/shavings in brown paper bags for slow drying. Still may not work.
I've had good luck with the Woodcraft brand of end grain sealer.