how to finish thick scrollwork

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  • LCHIEN
    Super Moderator
    • Dec 2002
    • 22085
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #1

    how to finish thick scrollwork

    I made a few more of these name placques. An aggaravating issue is how to get the tung-oil finish into the insides between the letters. I tried Q-tips before but that was a disaster - while I filed and sanded some the insides were still somewhat rough and left q-tip lint all over. Any suggestions?


    http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...light=harrison
    Attached Files
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions
  • RodKirby
    Veteran Member
    • Dec 2002
    • 3136
    • Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.
    • Mao Shan TSC-10RAS

    #2
    How about these? You may recall - I bought a bunch in Houston!

    Downunder ... 1" = 25.4mm

    Comment

    • williamr
      Forum Newbie
      • Dec 2006
      • 56
      • Mazatlan or Toronto
      • BT3000SX

      #3
      Originally posted by LCHIEN
      I made a few more of these name placques. An aggaravating issue is how to get the tung-oil finish into the insides between the letters. I tried Q-tips before but that was a disaster - while I filed and sanded some the insides were still somewhat rough and left q-tip lint all over. Any suggestions?


      http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...light=harrison

      Shake and Bake?

      Put item in plastic bag with tung oil -- shake and rotate well... :-)

      Remove excess with cloth -- lint free of course.

      Comment

      • drumpriest
        Veteran Member
        • Feb 2004
        • 3338
        • Pittsburgh, Pa, USA.
        • Powermatic PM 2000

        #4
        I'm with Rod, I just finished some shelf supports that I'll be posting up later this week, all fluer de li, and I used glue brushes to get into the scroll work, they worked very well.
        Keith Z. Leonard
        Go Steelers!

        Comment

        • Pappy
          The Full Monte
          • Dec 2002
          • 10490
          • San Marcos, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 (x2)

          #5
          Another option would be cheap brushes from the hobby dept. Bristles would be softer.
          Don, aka Pappy,

          Wise men talk because they have something to say,
          Fools because they have to say something.
          Plato

          Comment

          • cgallery
            Veteran Member
            • Sep 2004
            • 4503
            • Milwaukee, WI
            • BT3K

            #6
            Or you could place the entire piece in a large enough tray and "spoon" a finish into the cut-outs. The extra would drip back down into the pan and could be reused.

            After you're done, hold the unit above the tray a minute or two so it can drip, then use small pieces of rag through the openings to buff/remove extra (think shoe shining).

            Comment

            • pitbull
              Forum Newbie
              • Oct 2006
              • 7
              • sunderland. england

              #7
              Try putting the tung oil in a turkey baster and squeezing it in.

              Comment

              • scmhogg
                Veteran Member
                • Jan 2003
                • 1839
                • Simi Valley, CA, USA.
                • BT3000

                #8
                Loring,

                Re: the rough edges: I bought some little strips of sandpaper that attached to my scroll saw that allowed me to sand the inside edges. I bought them at a show, so I don't remember the source.

                Steve
                I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong. Bertrand Russell

                Comment

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