Drilling Phenolic inserts

[Tarheel]

So I managed to complete the installation of a router table extension wing on my CS 22124 table saw this past weekend. Now I am faced with accurately drilling the holes in the insert to accommodate my router base (DW618).

Are there any good suggestions out there to ensure the accuracy of the drill pattern? Was thinking of using the existing plastic router base as a template and just using double-sided tape to secure it on the new phenolic insert. Also I have heard of folks making a paper copy of the router baseplate and sticking it on the insert with spray adhesive as a pattern. At a bit of a loss for the best approach.

Any pointers would certainly be appreciated!

Thanks a lot,

Wayne

[RodKirby]

I take the baseplate off and measure - then make a 1/4" MDF template to ensure the holes are "spot-on" - then I can accurately place/clamp the template to the insert for drilling

[Thom2]

I just did this with an aluminum Ryobi plate. Instead of trying for perfect accuracy, I chose to drill the thru holes slightly oversized and then counterbore for the pan head screws to sit into. This allowed me to use the centering cone to line up the base and then tighten the screws to hold it in place.

My accuracy rate isn't that great, so I always try to leave myself a little room for error.

[docrowan]

My accuracy rate isn't that great, so I always try to leave myself a little room for error.

Amen, brother!

[LCHIEN]

I would do it this way:
Use the existing scuff plate as a template. Hold it to the insert in the position you want it to be. Use a fine 0.5mm mech pencil to caefully scribe the holes, using care to hold the pencil upright.

Put the scuffplate away. Carefully mark the center of the circles you drew, an use a center punch to mark the dead center by eyeball. enlarge the dimple a little.
Now put the insert on your drill press and use Woodworking brad point bits and carefully drill the holes. The phenolic should drill very easily and should not want to walk or follow grain like metal or wood.
Your holes should be well centered and you can counter sink them for flat head screws.
If you find them to be off, you can always enlarge them slightly, counterbore them and use pan-head screws as Thom2 suggested, with a centering cone everytime. But I think if you do it the way I suggested it should not be necessary.

[justaguy]

I ordered the centering kit from Rousseau. They have a fairly simple solution. Install a bushing into the plate insert, install a centering bit in the router, install threaded studs into the mounting holes in the router and push.

The threaded studs are ground down to pin points and clearly mark the plate.

If you have a bushing centering bit you should be able to accomplish the same thing by carefully grinding and cutting some appropriately sized all thread rod.

I can't give a direct link becuase the site uses frames but the following link takes you to the main page. Then select router accessories
http://www.rousseauco.com/

[justaguy]

Amazon carries the centering setup. The following link will take you to the one for the Dewalt. $6.06

Rousseau-39-0832

[ragswl4]

I taped the existing router plate (clear plastic) to the insert and drilled the holes then used countersink bit. Came out perfect. Just be sure to center the existing router plate on the insert hole. Oh, yeah, clamp the insert plate to the DP table.

I have also used Loring's method when attaching my router to a melamine top for a router table, worked perfect as well. Drilled that with a portable drill. Drilled a pilot hole then used one size larger bit than the screws that hold the router.

[LarryG]

Wayne, there are some good suggestions in here, but bear in mind that the placement of these holes is not that critical. Obviously you want to get them positioned as accurately as you can; but if you're off a few thousandths, the only consequence is that the bit will not be perfectly centered in the insert's opening.

The centering of the bit in relation to the router itself will be exactly the same situation as whatever it is when using the router hand-held. If the bit shifts position when you adjust the bit height, it will still do so no matter how accurately you center the base on the insert opening. With a table-mounted router, with the bit just sticking up through a clearance hole, this almost never matters. The only time it does matter is if you use a guide bushing -- something that is very rarely done on a router table, in most shops.

[Black wallnut]

To add what Larry said...... IF you are going to use it with a guide bushing then it effectivly just changes your offset if it is not centered and most of the time that should not matter as long as your bushings ID is large enough. Link that Justaguy wanted to post.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

So I managed to complete the installation of a router table extension wing on my CS 22124 table saw this past weekend. Now I am faced with accurately drilling the holes in the insert to accommodate my router base (DW618).

Are you using the insert that came with the saw or another unit? The wing that comes with the 22124 is not phenolic. Far from it.

[Tarheel]

Are you using the insert that came with the saw or another unit? The wing that comes with the 22124 is not phenolic. Far from it.

Jeff. I just added the MLCS Extension with the phenolic insert. This one...

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../routabl4.html

Looking at it tonite, I found that the hole (for the bushing) in the router baseplate and the small ring for the insert are exactly 1 1/4" in diameter. Took a piece of dowel that size and managed to center the router baseplate with the phenolic insert. I just may sandwich some double sided carpet tape, take it to the DP, clamp it to the table and drill away using the hole pattern on the stock base.

I think that this just may work. I like the Roasseau centering tool...but I think this is a little cheaper.....after I find and buy longer bolts to mount the base to the insert.

See a problem with this approach?

Thanks,

Wayne

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Jeff. I just added the MLCS Extension with the phenolic insert. This one...

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../routabl4.html

Looking at it tonite, I found that the hole (for the bushing) in the router baseplate and the small ring for the insert are exactly 1 1/4" in diameter. Took a piece of dowel that size and managed to center the router baseplate with the phenolic insert. I just may sandwich some double sided carpet tape, take it to the DP, clamp it to the table and drill away using the hole pattern on the stock base.

I think that this just may work. I like the Roasseau centering tool...but I think this is a little cheaper.....after I find and buy longer bolts to mount the base to the insert.

See a problem with this approach?

Thanks,

Wayne

Cool. Sounds like it would work.