First attempt at a dovetail...

[rosesunkist]

I am working on modifying my computer desk with more drawers. Here is my first try at a half-bind dovetail.....



I figure it's not too bad considering the cheap plywood. It was also my fist time using my new router and Rockler Dovetail jig. I must say that I am glad I tested on some scrap pieces first, because the directions for the jig were a bit off and really screwed up the first scraps.
It also didn't help that the router would not keep the bit centered. When I would raise the bit, the base would shift about 1/8 inch to the side. Then I would have to lower the bit back down to where it needed to be, and it would be pretty close to centered. Is it normal for the base to have a bit of play in it? I am just wondering because I bought it about 8 months ago and I am just now able to start using it, so I am not sure if I can still return it...

[drumpriest]

I think you should be proud. That jig is NOT easy to use. Probably the hardest DT jig I've ever had to use to make a DT joint.

So, be proud. Not sure about your base having that much play though, sounds like a problem. There's typically SOME play, but not 1/8", that seems insane.

[Ken Massingale]

What Keith said, plus ply is tough to do DT's on. As for the router, what is it? A quality router should hold center when changing bit height.

[Pappy]

Does sound like a problem with the router, but it looks like you overcame it well.

[jhart]

Sure looks a lot better than my first attempt. Rockler also has a set up jig for dovetails that works pretty well. Part number is 24118 and costs $14.95

[LCHIEN]

Most quality routers pay great attention to centering in the base...
like the Bosch 1617 for example has a baseplate with fixed (beveled countersunk holes) for the recommended centering AND a second set of holes with flat countersunk holes but some play so you can custom center if you want. Also the router travels on a vertical guide pin which keep the router from rotating.

Other routers use a spiral guide in the motor body (PC690) or use a thread in the body (Ryobi) for raising and lowering the router motor and bit - this turns the router and if offcenter can have significant centering problems. for example if its 1/16th to one side and you change bit height it can be 1/16th off to the other side making a total 1/8" shift.

[cabinetman]

Those DT's look great. Plywood is not a good media for DT's. As for the shifting, try to determine what is the cause. Changing settings midstream can be a hassle.

[Lee4847]

Good Job for the first time. They look good. When I started I made enough Kindling for the fireplace to last all year!!

[rosesunkist]

Thank you all very much. It's nice to be proud of something that no one will ever see......lol

Yes, the ply was very difficult to work with. Lots of tear-out, but what else do you expect from such low quality stuff. It was all cut-offs from other projects.

The router is a Porter Cable 895. It is not a wobbly kind of play. When I raise the bit, it seems that one side of the base moves before the other and it is easy to adjust. When lowering the bit, it centers back, but is very difficult to adjust.

[JimD]

I use the older PC 690 series routers and have not had an issue. Are you using the plunge base? It still should go up and down better than you describe but I like the fixed base better for dovetails because my hands are lower and the router does not feel as tippy. I also find it easier to get the height of the bit exactly right with the fixed base.

My most typical drawer material is baltic birch plywood. If you put a backer piece on front of what will be the side of the drawer, it really helps with chipout. Baltic birch also has fewer voids and is nicer than the average plywood. I attached my backer piece to the clamp bar of the HF jig I use these days with a couple screws. Avoids having to hold two pieces in place while clamping.

Jim