Gluing phenolic to phenolic?

[cgallery]

I want to glue phenolic to phenolic. Doing a little googling seemed to indicate a wide-range of suggestions, no definitive answer.

I had initially thought epoxy was the best bet. I did a little googling though and found answers from woodworking glue to special phenolic adhesives.

Any suggestions for a glue that I can find locally? That doesn't require a special applicator?

Also, if epoxy, suggestions for a good brand and a source? I know it can get kinda expensive. I don't need fast set-up. Actually, longer may be better as I can spend a little more time getting things aligned.

[LCHIEN]

I think there's a website mentioned here, www.thistothat.com
but its kind of generic about plastics, because there's so many types of plastics. I would try a solvent (acetone) based glue like Duco cement. (green and yellow package).

[Kensrock]

Gluing phenolic to phenolic

I've used a product called Plast-aid. Glues almost any plastic to plastic. The web site tells you what will and what won't bond. It doesn't list phenolic as a don't bond item.

[LarryG]

Caveat: I've never tried to do this. But unless I found advice to do otherwise, I think I'd try contact cement, the kind you apply to both surfaces and allow to get tacky-dry before assembling. Phenolic is basically the same thing used for the substrate layer of plastic laminates ... which are of course typically applied using contact cement.

You won't get a grace period for adjustments during the assembly, though. With contact cement, you'd better have it where you want it when it sticks, 'cause once it does, it ain't movin'.

[cgallery]

Caveat: I've never tried to do this. But unless I found advice to do otherwise, I think I'd try contact cement, the kind you apply to both surfaces and allow to get tacky-dry before assembling. Phenolic is basically the same thing used for the substrate layer of plastic laminates ... which are of course typically applied using contact cement.

You won't get a grace period for adjustments during the assembly, though. With contact cement, you'd better have it where you want it when it sticks, 'cause once it does, it ain't movin'.

Unfortinately I'm going to be gluing a board into a groove. So contact cement won't work. I thought of it, but realized I'd never be able to assemble the pieces.

Thanks,
Phil

[cgallery]

I think there's a website mentioned here, www.thistothat.com
but its kind of generic about plastics, because there's so many types of plastics. I would try a solvent (acetone) based glue like Duco cement. (green and yellow package).

Thanks, I'll give the Duco a shot. I had thought about model airplane glue, but that seems best suited to polystyrene. The Duco specifically mentions phenolic.

[onedash]

Gorilla Glue!!!!! I either use yellow wood glue or Gorilla glue for everything. When I think I need more strength I use the gorilla glue. Or if its something outside gorilla glue. I tried super glue for making pens but the tubes always came out so I switched that to gorilla glue too.

[cgallery]

Gorilla Glue!!!!! I either use yellow wood glue or Gorilla glue for everything. When I think I need more strength I use the gorilla glue. Or if its something outside gorilla glue. I tried super glue for making pens but the tubes always came out so I switched that to gorilla glue too.

Interesting. I have avoided purchasing any of those glues because apparently dogs mistake them for peanut butter. They glue expands in their stomachs and kills them. And my black lab loves peanut butter.

If the Duco doesn't work I'll investigate purchasing a small bottle of GG and give the leftover to a friend.

[Tom Slick]

I've used epoxy to glue pheonlic, it works great. I can't point you to any cheap sources to buy it but the local boat shop will probably carry west systems epoxy.
make sure to scuff both surfaces really well. smooth pheonlic is hard to stick to.