Butt Hunge Installation

[Tarheel]

I have just about completed a small recipe box that I have put together using cherry and hard maple with finger joint joinery. I sawed the top off and ready to install some simple brass butt hinges to the lid. In the past, when I have tried to align the top, place the hinge in the right position and then cut the tiny mortise for the hinge; I generally end up "missing the mark" (hence bad lid alignment), go too deep with the chisel or have a problem lining up the tiny screws in the hinge. The box is made out of 1/2" material and is about 5" x 6.5" x 5.5" tall.

Is it just my inexperience or do you all know of a trick to get more professional looking results?

Frankly, I am almost terrified to start in fears of screwing the box entirely!

Any advice would surely be appreciated!

Thanks,

Wayne

[LCHIEN]

I have just about completed a small recipe box that I have put together using cherry and hard maple with finger joint joinery. I sawed the top off and ready to install some simple brass butt hinges to the lid. In the past, when I have tried to align the top, place the hinge in the right position and then cut the tiny mortise for the hinge; I generally end up "missing the mark" (hence bad lid alignment), go too deep with the chisel or have a problem lining up the tiny screws in the hinge. The box is made out of 1/2" material and is about 5" x 6.5" x 5.5" tall.

Is it just my inexperience or do you all know of a trick to get more professional looking results?

Frankly, I am almost terrified to start in fears of screwing the box entirely!

Any advice would surely be appreciated!

Thanks,

Wayne

I think there's two approaches - the pretty one is to bury the hinges in the box by putting mortises in the top edge of the back and bottom edge of the top. These are the hardest to lineup. but all you see is the edge of the hinge. The best way to do this is to drill the pilot holes for the hinge using a drill press before cutting the box in two and before putting the top on. Drill the holes in the top edge deep enough and perfectly vertical (hence the DP) to cross the cut line and you will cover up the holes with the box top later. Use a DP fence to set the holes the same distance from the back edge of the box. After you cut the box in half and put on the lid then you will have perfectly matched holes top and bottom of the seam for the hinge. you can temporarily attach the hinge and mark the mortise locations and complete. The mortise is necessary or the top and bottom will have a gap. (Maybe too late for this method if you've already attached the lid to the box frame.)

The other approach is to place the hinges flat on the back. This is easiest to do but the whole hinge plate shows in the back as well as the hinge itself. Clamp the box top and bottom together, perfectly aligned. Then
place the hinge with the plates spanning the top and bottom and mark the holes carefully. Drill and attach. If you like you can now mark the mortise area, remove the hinges and mortise so at least the plates will be flush with the surface of the box. The mortise is optional.

Having a screw a little smaller than the holes in the hinge plate allow them to be shifted ever so slightly should some alignment be necessary.

that's the best ways I know to attach box hinges. A very critical and not that easy to do thing that drives you nuts if its not perfect.

[LarryG]

For delicate work like this, the key ingredient is patience, and lots of it.

A third method is to surface mount the hinge leaves on the top edge of the box bottom and bottom edge of the top (i.e., the same surfaces into which you'd cut mortises) and apply adhesive-backed felt bumpers at the front corners of the box, to match the combined thickness of the two hinge leaves. Obviously this will leave a small gap between the box's top and body. Many small boxes are made this way; if it's not the look you want, never mind.

Using ANY of these three methods, for a box this small I would use a full-length piano hinge rather than two butt hinges. A piano hinge is more robust than two tiny hinges and will be a lot easier to hold in alignment as you install it.

For drilling the holes, either use a self-centering ("Vix") bit or, more likely, mark carefully the screw centers with a sharp awl. And, as mentioned, apply a generous helping of patience.

[jackellis]

I've run across the same alignment headaches, though I've only attempted surface mounting (no mortise). The last time I tried, I got much better results by:

Cutting off the lid.

Taping the whole thing back together with painter's tape, being careful to align the top and bottom.

Tape hinges in place.

Drilling holes with a self-centering bit. This helps A LOT!. Spade point bits might work with an awl.

This experiment became a router bit box. The rest of the box looks like a carpenter put it together but the hinges and the front latch look pretty good.

[JimD]

I can't tell from your description if the top has part of the sides attached to it or is just the top. I presume that the top has some of the sides attached. If possible, I suggest you clamp the top to the bottom in the fully opened position. Then you can align the top while clamping. Next, I would screw the hinges in position - no mortising at this point. Then outline the hinges with a utility knife and remove them. Now a little careful chiseling and you have mortises. Screw holes should still be visible after the mortising. You can also use a little router to remove most of the wood instead of chiseling it all - helps get the depth right.

Jim

[Tarheel]

I can't tell from your description if the top has part of the sides attached to it or is just the top. I presume that the top has some of the sides attached. If possible, I suggest you clamp the top to the bottom in the fully opened position. Then you can align the top while clamping. Next, I would screw the hinges in position - no mortising at this point. Then outline the hinges with a utility knife and remove them. Now a little careful chiseling and you have mortises. Screw holes should still be visible after the mortising. You can also use a little router to remove most of the wood instead of chiseling it all - helps get the depth right.

Jim

Thanks to all for all of the suggestions. Looks like my best approach is to try my patience and tackle a wee mortise for the hinge plates. Clamping the lid to base as Jim suggests and drilling the pilot holes before scribing for the mortise definitely makes sense. I do have a set of Vix bits so they should allow me the hole centering ok. I also have a Bosch Colt that may just be the ticket for starting the mortise at the correct depth.

Just need to take a deep breath and give it a whirl!

Thanks again to all!

Wayne

[Ken Massingale]

These are easier for small boxes, IMO. Barrel hinges.

http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=270

Woodcraft has them, at a lower proce best I remember.

[LCHIEN]

These are easier for small boxes, IMO. Barrel hinges.

http://www.rockler.com/findit.cfm?page=270

Woodcraft has them, at a lower proce best I remember.

I've never tried them but I think that is a good approach.
You can drill the through holes like I suggested in my first approach or you can use dowel centering devices to line them up.