when do i change to a rip blade?

[LCHIEN]

OK, we've all discussed benefits of a rip blade vs. a combo or crosscut blade.

Suppose I'm cutting tapered legs - might have very steep tapers of a few degrees or maybe just taper the ends of short legs at 15-20 degrees.

At what point (angle) should you stop using a rip blade?
And what's your reasoning?

[Ed62]

Excellent question. I'm waiting to see the answers on this one. Maybe when you see a cut that is not as smooth as you need?

Ed

[Brian G]

No science went into the construction of this post

At what point (angle) should you stop using a rip blade?

I've cut miters with my 24-tooth, TK Freud when I was too lazy to change out the blade. The blade sees limited use other than for ripping, so it's still quite sharp. I still achieved glass-smooth cuts (no scoring) and very tight miters.

I give the useless "depends" answer. If your blade (whatever the tooth count) is sharp, your feed rate is consistent, and your technique is correct, then my opinion is that there will be little benefit of a combination blade over a dedicated rip blade.

You'll sand/scrape the tapers anyway.

[drumpriest]

The angle doesn't factor in for me concerning a ripping versus a combo blade. What does it is the amount of material being removed vs the likelihood of chipout.

I cut tapers with a ripping blade most all of the time, but that's typically because it's in 2" stock or larger. (8/4 anyway) If the taper is being cut in something 3/4", I'd use the combo blade, as the cut will be smoother.

Regardless, it's easy to clean up afterwards with a hand scraper.

[whitecobra]

I have been testing out Porter Cables new blade (well not totally new been testing it for 6 months and it was out before that)

It is part cross cutting and part ripping on the same blade

NICE blade!!

It is not as much a double compromise as I expected. Usually when I read "combo" I assume that I will get neither of the disjoints done well. A Fax printer is not a fax printer but an almost fax and almost printer. Here the blade is really a combo blade

It has to be seen to understand but part of the circumference is made up of smaller closer together teeth while parts are larger and wider spaced teeth

It is not terribly expensive (I know that is relative) but give it a try. Every once in a while there is a deal on it at HD

Dr Dave

[LCHIEN]

I have been testing out Porter Cables new blade (well not totally new been testing it for 6 months and it was out before that)

It is part cross cutting and part ripping on the same blade

NICE blade!!

It is not as much a double compromise as I expected. Usually when I read "combo" I assume that I will get neither of the disjoints done well. A Fax printer is not a fax printer but an almost fax and almost printer. Here the blade is really a combo blade

It has to be seen to understand but part of the circumference is made up of smaller closer together teeth while parts are larger and wider spaced teeth

It is not terribly expensive (I know that is relative) but give it a try. Every once in a while there is a deal on it at HD

Dr Dave

is that the variable pitch Razer blade? Actually, I have one I've never used.

[ChrisD]

From the Department of Unscientific and Llow-tech Answers

If I already have a rip blade on, I would not change it out just to cut tapers, regardless of the angle. I personally never consider a TS cut a final cut; regardless of how clean it looks, there's always some planing or scraping to do.

Also, I take my cue from handsaws: dovetails, which are essentially taper cuts, are best cut with a rip-filed saw.

[Knottscott]

For me it depends on the material and the thickness. Tapers are an exposed edge that I'd prefer not to have to spend alot of time sanding. I'll typically cut them with my 40T WWII to get a smoother cut, unless it's a very thick wood that's bogging the saw and/or causing burning. The WWII typically does a great job in things like 6/4" oak, but if it's more like 10/4" or 12/4" cherry/walnut, etc., I switch to the rip blade from the start.

[cabinetman]

If I already have a rip blade on, I would not change it out just to cut tapers, regardless of the angle. I personally never consider a TS cut a final cut; regardless of how clean it looks, there's always some planing or scraping to do.

I too don't change the blade if I have a on rip blade. I also agree with what Keith said about heavier stock. You can feel the difference in the cut when doing even a slight degree of crosscut. A good combo blade will do a variety of tasks. But I wouldn't change to a combo for a taper because of the slight angle of crosscut.



A THING OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER - John Keats

[cgallery]

Interesting question. Especially because the BT3K isn't exactly a 3HP cabinet saw.

When in doubt, especially on a project where I'm as far along as it sounds like you are, I'd use the blade on the saw and make a couple of test cuts (leaving enough material to do it again). It the cut quality is good, I'd finish-up the legs.

If it requires Herculean effort to push the wood through, or there is a poor cut quality, I would switch to a rip blade and make more test cuts.

[JimD]

I have my rip blade on at the moment. I cut some plywood with it last night. It was for blocks to align a board while mounting the oak piece so it wasn't critical how much tear-out I had. There wasn't much.

Rip blades crosscut OK when sharp. Crosscut blades rip OK when sharp and the cut isn't too deep. Combo blades do both pretty well. The only situation that I switch to the rip if I have the combination blade on is deep rips (how deep depends on the wood). I will switch the rip blade off when I have to do a crosscut that will show in the finished piece. A taper cut could essentially never get too great an angle to require a crosscut. Most taper cuts don't really require a rip either, however.

Jim

[SARGE..g-47]

A sharp 24 t rip blade doesn't come off my TS except to change it or clean it. I cross0cut with a SCMS that has retractable extensions anchored on-board the cabinet.

Anything under a 2" taper the TS gets the call. The BS is there for 2" + legs. Your essentially ripping with the grain anyway at the low angles generally called for in a taper. I cut it 1/16" proud so I can make a 1/16" pass on the jointer. Hand held card scraper gets the call next and then any sanding that might be required which usually isn't much.

Vacation huh?.... Back to finishing chairs which has to be the biggest challenge and in the same stroke PITA about WW IMO! ha.. ha..

Vacation..... grrrrrrrrr

Regards...