resawing

[onedash]

So I got my first roough sawn lumber. (QS bubinga). When I resaw it should I run it throught the joiner and planer first?
Im thinking yes but just want to make sure I get the most I can from it. I know I need to get a clean edge so I can get straight cuts.

[atgcpaul]

So I got my first roough sawn lumber. (QS bubinga). When I resaw it should I run it throught the joiner and planer first?
Im thinking yes but just want to make sure I get the most I can from it. I know I need to get a clean edge so I can get straight cuts.

Since you've got a jointer, just joint one face and one edge. Run the clean
edges against your resaw fence and your table. When the cut is done, set the
piece with the clean face and edge aside. Go joint the resawn face of the other
board and repeat. The fence should be set so that your keeper piece is
between the fence and the blade. I like to just joint one face rather than
cleaning up both so I have some extra "meat" on the board.

If I were just splitting the board down the middle, I'd probably joint and plane
the board parallel first, resaw down the middle, then plane the resawn boards.

Paul

[Wood_workur]

just joint, to have straight edges, but don't plane, because you want to keep as much thickness as possible.

[onedash]

just joint, to have straight edges, but don't plane, because you want to keep as much thickness as possible.

That was my thinking as well but if I have two rough surfaces and put them through the planer (not going to use the jointer on the face of a thin veneer) will It come out nice and smooth after a few passes?
ATGCPAUL's suggestion makes sense though to get the cleanest veneers.

The board is a hair over 10 3/4". I have a 6 inch jointer and 8" resaw capacity. I guess Im making ~5 3/8" boards.

In a further effort to stretch the wood whats the thinnest you would make flat panels? (for the inside of the pedastals)
I also assume it would be best to glue everything up as soon as its cut to prevent any movement?

Im going to use full 4/4 for the raised panels and stiles and rails and probably the base molding. Drawer fronts will probably be thin veneers.

There is one of the 4/4 boards that has about a 3-4 foot section that is much more figured than the rest. I just might have to save that for a different project...

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Both posters are saying the same thing, except slightly different ways. Face joint one face and edge joint one edge. Jointed face goes against BS fence and jointed edge goes on BS table. After making first slice take the slice and put it to the side. Take the remainder and face joint the face of the board that was just cut by the BS until it is flat. Repeat the process. You can then plane all your pieces.
Thickness is usually limited to the thickness your planer will handle, unless you have a thickness sander in which case you can take the veneer down pretty small. You have 4/4 stock 10 3/4 wide so you will end up with (2) 1/2" or so thick pieces approximately 5" wide. I would not try to get three cuts out of 4/4 unless the resulting board is being glued to a thicker board.
Edit : BTW nice choice on first rough lumber! You shouldn't have to worry about much wood movement with QS Bubinga!

[onedash]

here it is

Well it was much harder to resaw an eight inch board than I thought it would be.I guess I should consider myself lucky to have got three pieces. It was pretty slow going with a 1/2" blade. Maybe I shouldnt have used my 1/2" blade. The more I tensioned it the more difficult it was to keep it tracking. So I went as tight as I could while keeping it centered on the wheel. I made a beefed up fence for this too. I replaced the fence with the miter gauge fence from my table saw and slapped some plywood up there. The piece of wood sticking up is a shim to get it square. With it being so long and not the original fence the little red knob wouldnt do anything without it.

[drumpriest]

Hey, nice bandsaw. I've done a couple of 8" resaws, they are slow going, but if you take your time, it'll come out fine. You also noticed that it's a good idea to clamp the back of the fence. Overall I think you have a pretty good setup, the only thing that might have helped would be tall featherboards.

[onedash]

Yeah I noticed as soon as I put the plywood on that there was a little flex towards the back so I clamped it.. I should probably sand the plywood and slap some poly on it or maybe I will pick up some UHMW strips at woodcraft tomorrow. Never tried it but they are supposed to be pretty slick.

I layed down some waxpaper on my Table Saw thinking that would be good to protect everything when I glued up the pieces.
I went back and there were a couple rust lines running all along underneath the joints.
So I got the saw cleaned up and noticed a little cupping in the enitre sheet. Guess I should have have waited until I got my plywood and attached it right away...I will get that in the morning and glue it up right away.
You got a pic of a tall featherboard????