Best way to cut acrylic

[pcombs]

I am getting ready to update the top on my router table and will build an acrylic base for the router. I bought a .22 sheet from the borg and i'm wondering what is the tool/blade to make precision cuts?

[linear]

Acrylic cuts super great with a spiral bit in the router.

Cell cast acrylic is easier to cut than continuous cast, which is easier to cut than extruded. You might guess, those are also in decreasing order of price.

Leave the paper on until you've finished cutting and all machining operations.

[pcombs]

do you know which is which from the borg?

[LCHIEN]

Don't go too slow or it will melt.
Some sort of dust collection is highly recommended. If the words snowstorm don't ring a bell now they will later.

Cutting straight lines on the TS is also very easy.
Same advice as above., I just use the 40T WWII or the ryobi stock blade.

[pcombs]

I will most definitely have my goggles and 3m mask on when cutting this stuff.

[ed2kayak]

acrylic cutting

Check this link http://www.melevsreef.com/tools
.html
Many acrylic cutting tips. Also check out the saw!

[linear]

do you know which is which from the borg?

They don't all have the same stuff, unfortunately, but it's almost certainly extruded. It's the lower melt temp of extruded that makes it harder to machine--that's what's also behind Loring's "don't go too slow" tip.

I've also used a rotozip-type spiral saw in a Dremel with pretty good results for freehand curves. But I didn't own a router then. Since it was evident from your original post you do, then it's the tool of choice.

[linear]

Check this link http://www.melevsreef.com/tools
.html
Many acrylic cutting tips. Also check out the saw!

Wow, I've never seen anyone edge joint acrylic. And flame polishing has a definite downside if you do it before you glue. I'd suggest not flame polishing in most cases. Especially since the fumes are quite toxic.

My acrylic project is here: http://case-mods.linear1.org/the-invisible-case/



I didn't own a router then, but it is the way to go.

[Tom Slick]

http://www.plasticrouting.com/BitSea...?Page=Material
and
https://www.onsrud.com/xdoc/plastics

are good sites for plastic routing info

[linear]

If you go into production, invest in the Onsrud cutters, but for making a jig in the shop, you'll do very well with a "vanilla" spiral bit as long as it's sharp.

[jabe]

For straight cuts only, you can buy a plastic scoring tool from HD. Use a straight edge, score your cut line 3 times (light pressure on the 1st pass) on each side of the sheet. Place the sheet's scored line on the edge of a table hold it down firmly and push down on the side hanging off the table and it'll snap clean on the scored line. No waste from a saw kerf or router/spiral saw, just a clean cut.

[pcombs]

I found that cutting the acrylic with my table saw (60 tooth carbide blade) worked okay.

Another interesting thing I found is that forstener bits especially anything greater that 1/2/" on a thicker piece melts the plastic but it is actually not a big problem.

I have made a great router table insert and I'm working on an off-set base plate now. These things are usaully > $20 all I spent was about $10 for a sheet at the borg that will produce about 3 - 4 plates.

[ed2kayak]

Rob,
The invisible computer case project, is very nice. 2 thumbs up.
Ed