Stereo equipment cabinet

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  • scot kight
    Handtools only
    • Oct 2006
    • 3

    Stereo equipment cabinet

    Looking for some hints or links to plans for a stereo equipment cabinet that I can use to help me finalize my plans. I've been searching, but so far nothing quite right has popped up. Most cabinets incorporate the television or are huge things designed for a space I don't have. I actually need a small cabinet, as the television is firmly mounted to the wall, and I want everything to be "hidden", even if the cabinet is technically in plain view.

    Basically I want it to sit in the corner of the room, behind a speaker. I have about 5sqft to play with, and I have 6 components (various amps, receivers, xbox etc). Max width is 20" for the components, with a similar depth. Shelving does not need to be adjustable, as I am planning on customizing it to the proper setup for each component (i.e. tallest is about 6", but the dvr is only 3", and I will give it another inch or so for heat spacing). For heat I am planning on putting two outward facing fans on the back of the cabinet, running at very slow/inaudible speeds, with slots cut in the bottom towards the front to minimize appearance and noise (xbox 360 is loud). Shelving will have 2-3" gaps between the front of the cabinet and the back, easy to run cables and allows for airflow.

    I do not need a glass front or anything like that for the remote, as I will be using an IR repeater to get signals into the cabinet. Unfortunately there are no closets in easy reach, so I can't just throw everything in there and run long cables.

    BTW: I am a total newbie at this, and probably biting off way more than I can chew I have built a bunch of "functional" speakers in my past. Ugly as sin but I doubt a grenade would dent them. I have a bt3100 (obviously), a router (ryobi), a PC circular saw, and a jigsaw. I am guessing I will need some sanding equipment, but not sure what kind would be best.

    Is there anything else that I "must" have to complete this project? Any hints as to the exterior appearance? I like minimal designs, plus I have "minimal" experience, so easier is probably better.

    The other furniture in the room is a mix of leather and oak. While leather coverd sections would be uber cool, somehow I don't think that is the right material for a beginner
  • LCHIEN
    Internet Fact Checker
    • Dec 2002
    • 21130
    • Katy, TX, USA.
    • BT3000 vintage 1999

    #2
    From a technical/engineering standpoint, consider:
    1) accessibility to making connections in the back - if its in a corner then you will need to be able to slide out the units fully dragging all the cables, or make it wide enough to actually rotate the unit 90 degrees in place to make connections. Llighting to read the connector labels.
    2) Cooling - amplifers need a lot of cooling, CD/DVD/VHS players need some but not a lot. Amps/receivers usually want 2 or more inches clearance top and sides (check you manual).
    Slow speed fans in the back I don't know if that's enough... esp. if the back is closed. Probably the best would be fans and vents on the side of the compartment with the amp/receiver one pushing and the other pulling to get crossflow.
    Loring in Katy, TX USA
    If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
    BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

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    • scot kight
      Handtools only
      • Oct 2006
      • 3

      #3
      Good points, fortunately the amps are 0 clearance pro amps. They have fans in them already, pushing towards the back. (behringer ep1500 if you are interested, sounds amazing for the cost)

      Comment

      • mpauly
        Established Member
        • Apr 2006
        • 337
        • NJ

        #4
        Have you looked into bulding a 'Flexyrack'?

        http://www.tnt-audio.com/clinica/flexye.html

        It's an open design with shelves on threaded rod...very easy to build. Just cut and shape a shelf out of any material you like, drill 3 or 4 holes and thread the nuts onto the threaded rod. Shaping some nice caps to the top nut will clean it up some.

        I've used these for years, they are very stable, fully adjustable, easy to level and allow for full access and ventilation (also the downside in that they don't hide cables well and allow dust to settle). You can modify the design to any size/shape shelf and rod config you want, but a three rod system is actually more stable.

        Michael

        Comment

        • scot kight
          Handtools only
          • Oct 2006
          • 3

          #5
          I had a few of them, but they are not what I need for this room. Completely hidden is the name of the game here, along with silent.

          Comment

          • JimD
            Veteran Member
            • Feb 2003
            • 4187
            • Lexington, SC.

            #6
            Simpliest is probably a plywood box made of birch veneer plywood painted (so you can fill any gaps with bondo so they don't make any significant difference). I would make the shelves adjustable in case you change something but that is just me. Simpliest way is probably to use the metal standards they sell at the hardware store.

            Jim

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