box beam

[jspelbring]

I've got a micro-lam support beam that we installed when we joined two rooms together, and replaced a load bearing wall. The visible part of the beam is 6"x8"x12'.
Right now, it's wrapped with drywall. I want to wrap it in oak (stained) to go with the rest of the trim. I've got a 6" jointer, 12" planer, and a tablesaw (sorry, it's from the DarkSide). I'd like it to look like a massive oak beam, but I'm unsure how to go about it. Basically, it needs to be a 3 sided box. I was thinking of using my router table and a miter lock bit to join the pieces. The main problem is that my workshop is too small to handle 12' boards (not to mention my jointer being only 6").

Does anyone have any thoughts or tips?

Thanks,

Jon

[LarryG]

I guess it depends on how picky you are about the finished product looking like a solid piece of timber.

You could carefully select some narrow boards for the best grain match, mill them four-square and glue up panels of the required width. Done right, the joints wouldn't be too visible unless you really looked for them.

You could build the box out of hardwood plywood, with the bottom corners splined and mitered. Very difficult to pull this off, however, as it requires absolutely perfect craftsmanship.

You could have a millwork shop prepare the 12" side panels for you and do the rest yourself. Expect to pay through the nose for quality oak boards that wide.

As regards the small-shop limitation, there's not a lot you can do about that except find a place to work that's large enough ... driveway, patio, whatever.

[jspelbring]

I'm sure that I'll have to do the rip-mill-glue process on the 8" boards - I do want it to look good, as it will be a focal point in the room. I don't think that my skills are there for the plywood idea, though it would be lighter. Length would still be a problem though, as I would only have access to 8x4 ply.

I wonder if I would be able to use the miter joint bit accurately with just a plunge router? Sadly, the shop is in the basement, so moving the saw/Incra upstairs or to the driveway isn't an option.

Another thought that I had was to just use a circular saw to cut the 45 degree miter, then use small biscuits.

[Tequila]

Have you considered veneer?

[Tom Miller]

I'm not sure that you're going to be able to pull off a "solid beam" look. You might consider in-setting your horizontal piece into the vertical boards to the tune of ~3/4", and then milling the bottom edges of the vertical boards for ornamentation.

Regards,
Tom

[LCHIEN]

those miter lock joint bits are not all that easy to use, you should look closely at the instructions (www.mlcswoodworking.com has excellent free downloadable instructions for all their bits inlcuding the miter lock). I believe using this bit properly requires precise thickness match along the whole length (12' in your case) and very careful sliding of the cut on it's knife edge. I really felt after reading and imagining it that I would only use this bit for small repetitive (because of the careful, critical setup) boxes; I can't imagine using it for large pieces like you discuss. Because of the size of the boards I would have to consider handheld router and stationary boards as the means rather than using a router table and trying to support said boards while moving them.

I'd strongly consider using a simple 3/8" double rabbet joint. If your ceiling is at 8' high, people won't be close enough to see this simpler joint (easier to make over a 12' length).

Another possibility is instead of a beam look, install two side boards and the bottom board be set into a dado in the side boards, with a relief of 3/16th to 1/4" (I think some one suggested this above).

Also you might consider some false pegs or dowels at the ends for a faux joinery look.