how to avoid bubbles on your finish

[xli1]

I am trying to finish my kitchen cabinets by brush on poly. But no matter how I do it, I could not avoid very small bubbles generated by the brush. This really bothers me. I also tried wipe on, but it does not give me better finish. Can anyone give me some advices on this? Thanks!

[bmyers]

I've had the same problem with brush on, but not wipe on poly. Wipe on poly usually takes 3 coats before it looks like anything. 4 coats and it should be acceptable, 5 and it'll look like "butta".

Then I started making big pieces of furniture and wipe on poly with 4 coats just wasn't in my game plan. I ended up getting an HVLP sparyer from HF that works pretty darn good for the money.

Maybe it's an option for you. I'm sure there are folks who actually get a decent finish from a brush and I await their comments..


Bill

[drumpriest]

Think coats of wipe on built up for about 6-12 coats depending upon the project. If I want a REALLY smooth finish, I do a rub out.

[kwgeorge]

I work mostly with General Finishes as I find I like them the best. To avoid bubbles I like to use a good brush and presoak it in Mineral Spirits before I use it. Work slow and do not try to put much on at a time.

Ken

[Pappy]

Also stir the finish slowly instead of shaking it to minimize the bubles in the liquid.

[Deadhead]

I have better luck with the foam 'brushes' than bristle brushes. But I'm using cheap throwaway brushes for beginner projects, so that might not be something you want to experiment with.

[wardprobst]

I am trying to finish my kitchen cabinets by brush on poly. But no matter how I do it, I could not avoid very small bubbles generated by the brush. This really bothers me. I also tried wipe on, but it does not give me better finish. Can anyone give me some advices on this? Thanks!

You've received some good advice- I would suggest thinning per directions on the can then let the finish settle until all of the bubbles disappear before you begin to apply finish. Apply as thinly as you can, use multiple coasts, above all be very patient with the process. Accept that you will have some imperfections. An alternative would be to spray but that may not be possible if your cabinets are already in place.
Good luck,
DP

[xli1]

You've received some good advice- I would suggest thinning per directions on the can then let the finish settle until all of the bubbles disappear before you begin to apply finish. Apply as thinly as you can, use multiple coasts, above all be very patient with the process. Accept that you will have some imperfections. An alternative would be to spray but that may not be possible if your cabinets are already in place.
Good luck,
DP

What do you use to thin poly? mineral spirits?

[dlminehart]

The current issue of one of the national woodworker magazines (sold in HD) has an article on this subject. How to deal with bubbles, stray brush hairs, etc. Basic message is to lightly sand 'em away with very fine sandpaper, then use 0000 steel wool to buff the entire surface to a satin finish, and, if desired, rottenstone powder to buff to a low gloss.

[Howard]

I just finished reading the book,"Understanding Wood Finishing" by Bob Flexner and it does a great job explaining how to apply just about every type of finish available today. Spent some good time on bubbles, too! He not only explained the different types of finishes and stains, he laid out which is best for any type of wood, what to look for and what to look out for. He said to thin the material and allow time for the bubbles to work their way out, then sand them off. Great book, found it cheap on Amazon. I would recommend it to anyone.

[LCHIEN]

What do you use to thin poly? mineral spirits?

Yes, and I seem to recall from previous posts on this subject, some use naptha? perhaps do a search on naptha, here.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ghlight=naptha

[jabe]

I've used natural hair brushes but still got bubbles. Now I use foam brush with better results with poly. Between coats, I put my foam brush in a zip lock plastic bag, squeeze out most of the air and throw it in the freezer that way I don't have to clean it and it'll be ready to use for the next coat. But key word is patience, let the bubbles work themselves to the surface and let the finish level itself. Sand or rub out any imperfection. If you're between coats sand with 220 if its on the final coat, let it dry and sand with 2000 or 2500 grit on a ROS, you can get these fine grit at any auto part store. I like to rub it out with pumice & mineral oil then polish with rottenstone & mineral oil. I don't like to use steel wool as sometimes peices get stuck in the finish and starts to rust.

[ejs1097]

After I'm finished applying poly with a foam brush I also go back over the piece very lightly with the brush with no additional poly applied. This helps eliminates runs and works some of the bubbles out. then use 0000 steel to buff the rest smooth.

[Howard]

maybe the answer is a Fuji HVLP Mini-mite 3... no runs, no drips, no errors... hey, where have I heard that before??? If one can justify the initial expense, I have heard spraying in this manner is one of the best ways to go for a really smooth finish.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Yes, and I seem to recall from previous posts on this subject, some use naptha? perhaps do a search on naptha, here.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread...ghlight=naptha

Ha, ha, ha! How many times can I use the word naptha in one post?!?!?! LOL!

xli1, when you say wipe on does not give you a better finish, do you mean you still get bubbles (cause that is just wierd) or you don't like the look?

You can also wipe the bubbles out with NAPTHA (or mineral spirits) if you aren't going for high gloss. On relatively fresh lower sheen poly application you can put some solvent on a rag and wipe the bubbles out.

Having said all that, man have I ever fell head over heels in love with General Finish Arm R Seal poly, tung oil combo. Best poly finish ever!