Table top bread boards

[MilDoc]

I get the concept, but have a question. Obviously the ends of the breadboards will be exposed end-grain, which will not finish the same as the long-grain top. End-grain usually finishes darker. So, what has been your experience? How do you finish so it all matches?

I'll be using honey locust for some end tables LOML wants.

[JR]

I've read that you can put shellac on the end grain to seal it before the stain and finish stages. Also sanding sealer is supposed to work. I've not tried either one, though.

YMMV.
JR

[ChrisD]

Paul, I don't know what finish you'll be using, but there was a tip on applying dye to end grain in the December 05 FWW. It says to wet the end grain with water then immediately apply the dye. That will dilute the color.

[SARGE..g-47]

JR nailed it, Paul. You're going to have to seal that end grain in advance to get even a reasonable degree of match of same shade dye-gel-oil stain. One of the reasons finishing is not necessarily fun to me. Just necessary! :>)

You could miter the bread-board at the ends and plug so that no end grain is exposed. I personally am not a bread-board fan, so unless a certain style called for it I avoid it altogether. And then if the top does not over-lap ther strechers by more than 6 inches, I will still pefer to by-pass.

Run a test end grain compared to surface test on scrap stock in advance and see how much difference you get with the end grain sealed. Be sure to sand the scrap stock the same manner your "real deal" will get. You could dilute the stain or light surface sand after application to lighten it or you just accept the difference as a contrast feature if the seal is a near miss.

The good news is you have options. The bad news is end grain color matching is and will always be a PITA. ha.. ha...

Regards...

[crokett]

I've treid sealing the ends but prefer to miter the breadboard into the long boards. It is a more finished look and I think is a little stronger.

[gsmittle]

I've never tried this with actual hardwood (all 3 of my projects have been pine so far), but I've had good luck sanding the end grain a grit or two finer than the long grain.

g.

[MilDoc]

The wood I have is beautiful honey locust, so the only finish I plan is polyurethane for protection. No dye, no stain. Should have mentioned that. Based on an article i read in FWW I plan to sand to 220g on the top and 320g on the end grain. The end tables will be Mission style.

SARGE -- What do you mean by: " You could miter the bread-board at the ends and plug so that no end grain is exposed. " You totally lost me there.

CROKETT -- "...prefer to miter the breadboard into the long boards." You lost me too.

I've read more books then I should have, but nothing I've seen mentions either technique...

[SARGE..g-47]

Crokett and I are speaking of the same thing, Paul. I've been plinking with wood for 34+ years and don't have nor know if there is an accepted term to describe what we were talking about. If I had the capability to draw a simple diagram, it would be explained by a quick glance and save the words below. But I don't, so..... here goes. :>)

Say your top is to be ?? 24".. long and 16" wide. Your b-b ends are to be say 4" wide. Then your glued up Main panel would be 24" long minus -8" or =16" total lenght to allow for the two 4" wide b-b ends. If you miter the b-b ends to hide end grain, here's how I would handle it.

I would rip the main panel stock 4" wide so you use 6 pieces in the glue up to get your 16" width. But you glue up and size only the 4 center pieces at 16". The two outer pieces will be 24" with a 45* degree miter angled inside toward the inner main panel. I would spline the main panel end grain to accept the not yet attached b-b which will also be mitered 45* to the outside to meet and mesh with the tip of the two remaining 24" outer pieces.

So what you have is an inner main panel 16" wide and ready to attach an outer perimeter made up of two 24" (long side) and two 16" (bread board end side). I would glue the outer perimeter at one time as you would a picture frame. Alas... a 24" by 16" top with no end grain showing because each corner of the outer perimeter meets at 45* with no end grain exposed!

Whew.... I hope you understand that. If not ask questions. It's simple but I have never explained it in words without the aid of a rough drawing to point out as I explain. I suppose.. "just think of an inner component being surrounded by a picture frame". Whoa.. that sounds too simple! ha.. ha...

Regards...

[SARGE..g-47]

Correction.. so you use 4 peices in the main width.

Add.. the width of peices is determined by you as to your actual dimentions and how you want the glue lines to asthetically look as your eye see's it. Just be sure to account for the width of the B-B ends.

BTW.. the miter angle can be adjusted to suit your taste also as long as the all angles mesh in the final result..

[RayintheUK]

Something like this, Sarge?



Ray.

[SARGE..g-47]

Ya da man, Ray! Where were you at 4:30 EST this morning (I'm on vacation or holiday as you would say) when I posted and could have saved all the yabba-dabba-do. As they say, "a picture is worth a thousand words" and this is a prime example. ha.. ha...

Thanks for the kind assist...

[RayintheUK]

I think this is what Sarge meant by the "picture frame" method earlier.



The outer boards are longer field boards, mitered at 45 degrees, the breadboard edges would then need to be the same width and mitered accordingly after milling the groove. Patterned to show a little more clearly how you'd finish up with no end grain anywhere. No tongues shown on the main field boards, but you get the idea. HTH

Ray.

[MilDoc]

Great explanation SARGE (I really did understand it) and great pics. So, how does this allow for wood movement?

[Black wallnut]

One possible drawback to mitered breadboard ends would be if your wood has large seasonal movement your miters could split. This could look worse than endgrain.

Exacty MilDoc you replied while I was still reading the whole topic .

[drumpriest]

Here's a thought though. It's better for any cutting board to be end grain up, as when you cut on it you don't risk cutting the fibers of the wood. Have you considered end grain up??