Router Table Plate question

[greencat]

I have an aluminum router plate that I would like to install into a mdf / laminate table I am building. The table will be 1 1/2 mdf with a laminate top.
The plate came from the BT3100 router mounting kit.


Any tips on how to router out the area for the plate?

[JR]

Any tips on how to router out the area for the plate?

The latest ShopNotes has a technique for this problem. I'll try to summarize, but you should check out the article. You'll need a top-bearing straight bit, suitable for making a template.

Lay your plate on a piece of MDF or hardboard template material which is several inches larger than than the plate in all dimensions. Surround the plate with strips of MDF/hardboard using carpet tape to stick the strips to the template. Remove the plate and go around the inside of the strips with your top-bearing bit until you cut through the template material. You now have a template.

Afix the template to your tabletop with carpet tape. Go around the inside of the template with your top-bearing bit, cutting to the depth of the plate. Use a jigsaw to cut along the inside of the newly-created groove, causing the middle to drop out. Yer done!

HTH,
JR

[LarryG]

Use a jigsaw to cut along the inside of the newly-created groove, causing the middle to drop out. Yer done!

Almost. Since Mike is using the aluminum mounting plate from the accessory kit, he'll have to chisel the corners of the groove square. (Well, two of them are actually at some less-than-90d acute angle, rather than square, but you know what I mean.)

And BTW Mike, that's a clever idea ... using the acc'y kit plate as an insert, I mean. Not sure if anyone here has ever done that before.

[LCHIEN]

green cat, have u thought twice about iusing the BT3100 router kit mtg plate?

One, its an odd shape. Two, its designed to mount from below the tbale, whereas you really want to hang the plate from the top and pull the router through the table for setups, bit changes, etc. I think the BT plate is too small for that. Third, the hole is too small, meant for small bits and you can't install throat plates.

what's the objective - because you have it? becuase you are reluctant to drill holes that match the router pattern? in Metal?

[JR]

Almost.

Good point. Also, I now remember that the ShopNotes plan calls for making the tabletop recess a tad deeper than the plate, then driving screws into the tabletop lip, which can be used to adjust the plate for perfect coplanar-ism with the tabletop.

As to Loring's points: I agree the BT router plate is less than ideal for the reasons mentioned. I think, though, that it could still allow for topside removal. I also think that large bits could be flown above the plate; a clever woodworker could make this work.

JR

[greencat]

green cat, have u thought twice about iusing the BT3100 router kit mtg plate?

what's the objective - because you have it? becuase you are reluctant to drill holes that match the router pattern? in Metal?

I'm using it because I have it. I'm not ready to buy an expensive plate or lift. I understand what you are saying about the plate not being larger than the router since there is no advantage if I can't get the router out. I also have a large steel router plate that I could use.

This table with be a Sears clearance table - router mounting Kit, steel plate, and router fence. I guess I could also just mount the router to the MDF.

Main need for a table is to build some raised panel doors.

Thanks

[greencat]

Good point. Also, I now remember that the ShopNotes plan calls for making the tabletop recess a tad deeper than the plate, then driving screws into the tabletop lip, which can be used to adjust the plate for perfect coplanar-ism with the tabletop.

As to Loring's points: I agree the BT router plate is less than ideal for the reasons mentioned. I think, though, that it could still allow for topside removal. I also think that large bits could be flown above the plate; a clever woodworker could make this work.

JR

I was with you until I got to the clever part. How about resourceful?

[JR]

Main need for a table is to build some raised panel doors.

So that goes directly to lchien's point about the narrow opening of the BT router mounting plate. The larger diameter bits for panel raising generally won't fly within the small opening on that plate. So some "resourcefullness" would be required, assuming your steel plate has the same limitation.

My first guess as to a solution would be to make a false top or carriage of some type on top of the router table. The bit would be buried in this false top, allowing you to run the panels through properly.

Another idea is to bury the BT router plate deeper into the table top.

JR

[LarryG]

Mike, what router and base are you using?

The reason I thought your idea was interesting (seeing how you don't like "clever" ) is because a fixed base with the handles removed should be small enough to lift out from the top. IIRC the acc'y kit plate is about 7"-8" across in the short direction, and most round router bases are right at 6" diameter.

If you're using a plunge-only router, then it might or might not come out. Probably won't.

Loring has a point about the bit hole, but it's no smaller than the opening in the acc'y table itself (although, as he also notes, you can't choke it down unless you rig up some homebrew reducers).

Let us know how this works out, and post pics if you can.

[Popeye]

OK, so I'm cheap but.... I just did what you're talking about. I'm using a solid core door for the outfeed table/router table for the new saw. I routed out a recess from the bottom to within 3/8" and cut a hole through the top about 1/2' larger in diameter to support the inserts. Made a number of inserts out of poplar fit the depth with various sized holes for the router bits.
I use a Milwaukee router which with one lever flip and button push drops out of the mounting. Much easier to change bits with it laying on the table. I haven't gotten around to drilling the top for the routers through the table depth adjustment. May or may not.... I have to open the bottom to release the router anyway so it's not that big a deal to adjust it from the bottom. Here is a link to the pictures. Wasn't a hard thing to do. Made a big mess but.... P.S. the Milwaukee has more than enough depth adjustment to allow for all the table top thickness. Good luck, Pat
http://bt3gallery.fhauto.com/view_al...mName=album111

[greencat]

Mike, what router and base are you using?

The reason I thought your idea was interesting (seeing how you don't like "clever" )

I have a Hitachi M12V. I was thinking about taking the handles off since I will only use it in the table. I got the mounting kit on clearance but never got around to using it on the accessory table. I like the idea of a stand alone table.

To me clever implies smart and the smart thing would be to buy a nice plate.

Popeye that is a great table.