How to plug a 7/8" hole

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  • davidtu
    Senior Member
    • Apr 2006
    • 708
    • Seattle, WA
    • BT3100

    How to plug a 7/8" hole

    I am going to be putting a small fence in a garden. I am mounting it to railroad ties via two 4" lag screws. I have to countersink them and in order to fit the socket, the hole is rather large (7/8"). These will end up being below ground and I was originally planning to fill holes with an appropriate silicone sealer (I have something, I forget what--if you want to suggest what, go ahead).

    Now I am thinking of using wood plugs instead, but the plug cutters I find are all too small (e.g. http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/11298)

    So, what is the best way to fill the holes?

    Btw, Its a little late to suggest an alternative to such large holes, as I already have 'em. (But if there was a better way to go, let me know too.)

    Thanks!

    (and if you've been "following" this project, yes I know it is taking forever!)
    Never met a bargain I didn't like.
  • JR
    The Full Monte
    • Feb 2004
    • 5633
    • Eugene, OR
    • BT3000

    #2
    7/8" dowels?
    JR

    Comment

    • Anna
      Senior Member
      • Feb 2006
      • 728
      • CA, USA.
      • BT3100

      #3
      Maybe cut pieces off dowels?

      Comment

      • LarryG
        The Full Monte
        • May 2004
        • 6693
        • Off The Back
        • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

        #4
        A 7/8" dowel as JR suggests is the obvious solution, but I don't think that's a stock diameter ... I think (emphasis on THINK) the sizes jump from 3/4" to 1".

        So you might need to either drill out the holes to 1", or somehow turn a 1" dowel down to 7/8".
        Larry

        Comment

        • LCHIEN
          Internet Fact Checker
          • Dec 2002
          • 21079
          • Katy, TX, USA.
          • BT3000 vintage 1999

          #5
          Originally posted by LarryG
          A 7/8" dowel as JR suggests is the obvious solution, but I don't think that's a stock diameter ... I think (emphasis on THINK) the sizes jump from 3/4" to 1".

          So you might need to either drill out the holes to 1", or somehow turn a 1" dowel down to 7/8".
          That's what I'd do -
          enlarge the holes to 1" and hammer in a 1" dowel, then use a flush trim saw to cut off even.
          Loring in Katy, TX USA
          If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
          BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

          Comment

          • Wood_workur
            Veteran Member
            • Aug 2005
            • 1914
            • Ohio
            • Ryobi bt3100-1

            #6
            Actually, dowels are often under size, so you have 4 options:

            1. affix the dowel with epoxy if it is loose in the hole.
            2. turn 7/8" dowels (if you have a lathe)
            3. find a holesaw with an id or 7/8", and drill out the center hole to 3/8", and use regular plus in the middle
            4. use a fly cutter

            I vote for number 1 or 4
            Alex

            Comment

            • LCHIEN
              Internet Fact Checker
              • Dec 2002
              • 21079
              • Katy, TX, USA.
              • BT3000 vintage 1999

              #7
              Originally posted by Wood_workur
              Actually, dowels are often under size, so you have 4 options:

              1. affix the dowel with epoxy if it is loose in the hole.
              2. turn 7/8" dowels (if you have a lathe)
              3. find a holesaw with an id or 7/8", and drill out the center hole to 3/8", and use regular plus in the middle
              4. use a fly cutter

              I vote for number 1 or 4
              I find the store-bought dowels to be oversize and undersize. By up to +/-.010"
              Not to mention oval as well.


              if you want a snug fit, buy a spade bit 1" dia.
              Use a file or grinder and take off .005" on each side near the tip, tapering to 0" off about 1/4" up from the tip.
              Now when you drill you'll have a tapered hole to jam the dowel into.

              (Or do as I do, just bring some calipers to the HW store and buy some dowels you measure to be slightly oversize.)
              Loring in Katy, TX USA
              If your only tool is a hammer, you tend to treat all problems as if they were nails.
              BT3 FAQ - https://www.sawdustzone.org/forum/di...sked-questions

              Comment

              • Tom Miller
                Veteran Member
                • Mar 2003
                • 2507
                • Twin Cities, MN
                • BT3000 - Cuttin' it old school

                #8
                Do the holes need to be filled?

                If it's to protect the bolt, you could use stainless.

                Just thinkin' outside the bun -- all the good answers were taken.

                Regards,
                Tom

                Comment

                • jnesmith
                  Senior Member
                  • Jan 2003
                  • 892
                  • Tallahassee, FL, USA.

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Tom Miller
                  Do the holes need to be filled?

                  If it's to protect the bolt, you could use stainless.

                  Just thinkin' outside the bun -- all the good answers were taken.

                  Regards,
                  Tom

                  That's what I was thinking. If the holes are going to be "below ground", why the need for plugs?
                  John

                  Comment

                  • gerti
                    Veteran Member
                    • Dec 2003
                    • 2233
                    • Minnetonka, MN, USA.
                    • BT3100 "Frankensaw"

                    #10
                    Originally posted by jnesmith
                    That's what I was thinking. If the holes are going to be "below ground", why the need for plugs?
                    My thoughts too. If it is to protect the screw, I'd use some 2-component filler or so. Seems to me a plain wood plug would be the 'weakest link' and rot away much before any of the other components.

                    Comment

                    • WayneJ
                      Senior Member
                      • Jan 2004
                      • 785
                      • Elmwood Park, New Jersey, USA.

                      #11
                      How about auto body filler "Bondo"
                      Wayne J

                      Comment

                      • messmaker
                        Veteran Member
                        • May 2004
                        • 1495
                        • RICHMOND, KY, USA.
                        • Ridgid 2424

                        #12
                        Bondo would work but so would some silicone caulk. You could turn a 1" dowel to fit on a router table with a straigt bit if you got to have wood and don't have a lathe.
                        spellling champion Lexington region 1982

                        Comment

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