Table legs

[steve-norrell]

As a former teacher I used to tell my students that the only silly question is the one that doesn't get asked. So here it is ....

Is there a trick to installing those table leg braces that bolt on to the leg, lock into a kerf on the table side rail, with the side rail butting up against the leg?

I am trying to make a small bench and am thinking of using 2" square legs with 5/8 or 3/4 inch sides. The seat would rest on the sides and leg tops.

Thanks for this help and all the other good info in these threads. Regards, SN

[LCHIEN]

As a former teacher I used to tell my students that the only silly question is the one that doesn't get asked. So here it is ....

Is there a trick to installing those table leg braces that bolt on to the leg, lock into a kerf on the table side rail, with the side rail butting up against the leg?

I am trying to make a small bench and am thinking of using 2" square legs with 5/8 or 3/4 inch sides. The seat would rest on the sides and leg tops.

Thanks for this help and all the other good info in these threads. Regards, SN

I think i know what you are talking about -
like this? http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1069

You have to put a special stud into the corner of the leg, the plate goes over the stud and a nut holds it on.

The stud is a special stud with wood threads on one end and machine threads for the nut on the other end.

You have to place the stud into the leg at exactly 45 degrees so a drill press and a good V-block support are invaluable; you can easily make a v-block support - two 45° groove cuts lengthwise down a 2x4 will do.

When installing the stud into the wood, set two nuts on the machine threaded portion and using two wrenches lock them together, Then you can use the wrench on one of them to drive the stud into the wood. Unlock the nuts to remove them.

The only other trick is where to cut the kerfs. I would hope there's some instructions. Better to put them a little too far apart and not have the plate touch the leg than too close and have a gap between the leg and aprons.

[WayneJ]

Home Depot stocks the studs . 1/4 & 5/16 from 3 to 5 inches. I just got some for a table I put new legs on. Mine was easy, the apron was already cut in the corners. Cutting the corners of the apron right will take a little fussin.
Wayne

[steve-norrell]

Table Legs Two

Thanks Loring and Wayne.

That is exactly the kind of brace I want to use.

It looks like the critical part is the 45 degree angle off the leg.

I had already made a rig for the drill press and was hoping there would be some quick-and-easy answer as to where to cut the kerf. I guess it will take a little fussing and some trial and error on test pieces.

Thanks for the help.

[WayneJ]

As for drilling legs, take a knife and par off the sharp corner of the leg where you will drill the holes for the lag screws.This will giive the drill bit a better surface to bite into to start.
Wayne

[JimD]

Why use the braces? I use either biscuits or mortise and tenon joints and I have not had a problem with either type joint without any braces.

Jim

[steve-norrell]

Why use the braces? I use either biscuits or mortise and tenon joints and I have not had a problem with either type joint without any braces.

Jim

Great idea, but at this stage in my tender young woodworking career I have neither a biscuit cutter nor mortise cutter. And, it would take more time than I want to spend to buy the bits and set-up my old creaking router.

Actually I did cut a bevel and rabbited arrangement, but the person who wants the benches preferred the looks of the brace-mounted legs.

In the future, when my workshop begins to look like The New Yankee Workshop, I would definately use other mounting systems.

[JimD]

Steve,

Makes sense now. Been there. I would not attempt mortise and tenon joints without at least a plunge router. With one, you can make pretty nice mortises. I have a dedicated mortiser so I typically use it. I used a special router bit to make biscuit joints before I got a dedicated machine for that but it didn't work real well. I would not recommend it. The cheapest biscuit jointer that seems decent is the new Ryobi/Craftsman. I saw a review, I think it was in American Woodworker where they liked it but they said the slide mechanism had too much play so you had to cock your wrist when plunging to avoid too wide slots - still costs $100. It takes awhile to build up a tool collection and it is nice to be able to make a few things that do not depend on another tool purchase.

Sounds like you have a good plan.

Jim