Ultra-Lite MDF

[bigsteel15]

Just wondering if anybody has used this product.
It seems to be about half the weight of regular MDF.

I was thinking of using it for a torsion box for a BT3 mobile cabinet.
Any thoughts?

[final_t]

Where did you find this at? Never heard of it before, but not too surprised that it might exist - weight is one of the problems with MDF.

[bigsteel15]

Where did you find this at? Never heard of it before, but not too surprised that it might exist - weight is one of the problems with MDF.

A local store has it. Windsor Plywood. They also have stores in Great Falls, Spokane and Bellingham, WA


http://www.windsorplywood.com/catalo...eets/index.htm

Page 36
Says it is 1/3 lighter and easier on tools but maintains strength.

[LCHIEN]

sounds counter-intuitive to me.
MDF stands for medium density Fiberboard.
If it were lighter by half that would make it low density. Then you couln't call it MDF anymore... as medium density is a key property.

[bigsteel15]

sounds counter-intuitive to me.
MDF stands for medium density Fiberboard.
If it were lighter by half that would make it low density. Then you couln't call it MDF anymore... as medium density is a key property.

Loring, you make a good point. Light Density Fiberboard?
I suppose I should ask my cabinetmaker friend about this as far as strength and what he would use it for.

The name on it is Super-Lite MDF

Maybe more fibre and less glue. They do say it is easier on tooling.

[RayintheUK]

I wouldn't use it for construction - it's designed for facings, claddings, wrappings, etc. I'd guess that the crushing strength would be significantly reduced and - especially for a torsion box - I'd steer clear of it.

I try to use a branded (e.g. Medite) moisture-resistant MDF for construction wherever I can now. Finishes better, especially on the edges and seems to have less dust - not a scientific measure, just a guesstimate.

Ray.

[bigsteel15]

I wouldn't use it for construction - it's designed for facings, claddings, wrappings, etc. I'd guess that the crushing strength would be significantly reduced and - especially for a torsion box - I'd steer clear of it.

I try to use a branded (e.g. Medite) moisture-resistant MDF for construction wherever I can now. Finishes better, especially on the edges and seems to have less dust - not a scientific measure, just a guesstimate.

Ray.

Thanks for the info Ray. I guess I'll stick to the regular MDF or ask them if they have the moisture resistant type stuff.

[bigsteel15]

I spoke with the Windsor Plywood guy today. He highly suggested using plywood for the torsion box, not MDF and definitely not the Super-Lite.
still thinking. Plywood vs MDF

[RayintheUK]

I spoke with the Windsor Plywood guy today. He highly suggested using plywood for the torsion box, not MDF and definitely not the Super-Lite.
still thinking. Plywood vs MDF

Have a look here - if the box is a true torsion box, the choice between ply and MDF of the same thickness is almost moot. I used MDF because I detest splinters and I'd park a truck on the finished item. I'd have expected a plywood guy to suggest plywood, BTW!

Ray.

[Xamu]

I spoke with the Windsor Plywood guy today. He highly suggested using plywood for the torsion box, not MDF and definitely not the Super-Lite.
still thinking. Plywood vs MDF

If the spacing of the interior grid is correct you can use remarkably thin surface skins. Hollow core doors have a very thin skin. For that matter, so does industrial cardboard,

½" of super light MDF will be several orders of magnitude stronger than either of those. The trick would be to get a really good glue spread and not use mechanical fasteners in the MDF.

[guycox]

Scared me for a sec. I thought you were making an airplane from MDF

Just wondering if anybody has used this product.
It seems to be about half the weight of regular MDF.

I was thinking of using it for a torsion box for a BT3 mobile cabinet.
Any thoughts?

When I saw ultralight I thought you were making an experimental aircraft out of MDF. Now there's a scary thought.